It just occured to me that this year is the 30th anniverary of sorts of the “Free Ride, Bustin Down the Door” winter of '75. Gosh how time flies, it does’nt seem that long ago that Shaun Tomson, Rabbit, MR, PT, Michael Tomson, Ian Cairns & Co. were redefining the boundaries of what could be done on a wave, especially the North Shore. Just as significant but not as much in the limelight, the Hawaiians (Bertelmann, Dane, Buttons, Liddel, Mike Ho) were quietly perfecting their own brand of ripping with a touch of Hawaiian Style. It was a changing of the guard, maybe reluctantly handed down from veterans, BK, Lopez, Rory, James Jones, Hakman, Hamilton that took surfing to a higher level that can be traced to what we know as surfing today.
Aloha Foamdust
Those were good times! And while it was a long time ago, it often seems like yesterday. I just spent some time reminiscing with Dan Merkel and Bobby Owens the last couple of days. Time has passed but it ain’t over yet!
they all still look very fit , all still surfing [well maybe except Bertlemann].
The recently released “Stylemasters” d.v.d. also ‘showcases’ this era , and has good interviews with some of them in the “extras” section at the end.
I probably liked the “Buttons” footage best of all, I reckon .
ben
it might not seem like long ago to you, but to some of the younger surfers here, it seems like forever ago. many of us can’t imagine surfing some of the classic spots without a ridiculous amount of people in the water. i watch old surf movies that show people surfing uncrowded spots here on the east coast of NSW, australia and it seems like a dream. i would have loved to experience that and many of the design changes of the day but i was born for this time and i’m better for it, even if i feel like i’ve missed out.
enjoy your memories, some of us don’t have them yet. some don’t have them anymore.
Quote:
it might not seem like long ago to you, but to some of the younger surfers here, it seems like forever ago. many of us can’t imagine surfing some of the classic spots without a ridiculous amount of people in the water. i watch old surf movies that show people surfing uncrowded spots here on the east coast of NSW, australia and it seems like a dream. i would have loved to experience that and many of the design changes of the day but i was born for this time and i’m better for it.
I agree, me too.
Yea D…
I watched Jebson’s Cosmic Children and 5 Summer Stories the other day and everytime I see those guys, Hakman, BK Fritzy etc etc. All I can say is… Oh my god that’s me… I must look like a twerp nowadays.
That’s exactly how I envision my surfing to be yet I’m riding these new fangled quads and thrusters
I feel like a defrosted caveman at times still living in my mind those Pacific Vibrations moments. Still surfing those dated lines.
You know you’re old when you see a name you know in the obits every other day or have to attend a least one funeral a month.
Consider this- Where I lived in Africa the people did not see their lives as moving into the future as most of us do. They see their lives as moving into the past. The longer you live the more of your life is in the past and then when you die you’re literally history. While this makes it notoriously difficult to do any long range planning it seemed to make the people live more in the present (not stressing or dreaming about the future). Finally, when they die they enter the much venerated realm of the “ancestors.” While I think it’s impossible for most of us to live that way, I think we can learn alot. So rejoice in each day and savor those memories!
Seems to me it depends on what you liked. I felt the Hawaiians had much more style than the “top pros.” I’ll even go so far as to say I thought MR, although he may have had manuvers etc, seemed like a herky jerky kook. At least when I saw him dropping in on people at the HB pier. But that’s just me.
Good call. That may help explain the other usage of the term M R.
Free Ride was the turning point in my surfing life from surfing is fun to I’m gonna surf the rest of my life!!!
I was 11 years old and saw Free Ride at the Waialae Theatre. I remember sitting there in awe completely blown away even with the contact high I was getting from all the guys burning in the audience…
After the movie I knew my life was changed forever… Although I already learned to surf I felt from that moment on I became a SURFER for life. To this day that Pablo Cruise 0 to 60 in 5 soundtrack takes me right back to that time…
MR ripping big Honolua, Rabbit talking us through that wave that just barrels him at the end, and of course the awesome watershots at glassy OTW…
Can you buy Free Ride on DVD anywhere?
Cheyne , where are you ?
I’d like to hear YOUR take on all this , as you were 16 at the time , skateboarding in the coca cola team with young Robbie Bain, and already getting shots in the surf mags .
Plus of course , today…
you are now , I guess, in a different league to most of the guys mentioned , with your tow-in antics in massive waves .
Not to mention , competing in the Quiksilver Silver Edition contests [against your peers from the 1970s-today]
You there , Cheyne ??
cheers !
ben