I’ve used FG supplies 12oz 45/45 before. I didn’t stop significant heel denting when used over and under corecell A500 over a 0.75# density core in a kiteboard, it’s bulky as the weave is not very tight and the stitching material used is polyester, so it never goes clear or saturates nicely. I’d stay away; you’ll add a ton of weight by virtue of simply having to fill the voids in that weave…and it was a b*TCH to saturate. I still do use it when the application demands, but it goes inside a skin or over a wood core for a twin tip kiteboard. No place on a surfboard in my opinion.
Pictures as promised…
I shut myself up in the shed about noon on sunday. Several hours later, I had excreted this:
I don’t know about the pics, but in person it is a total handshape POS. The deck concave is visible in the second pic…it is pretty extreme at about .5’’ deep.
shape looks good to me Hunter.
i’m diggin’ the foil!
thanks mate.
I’m a bit concerned about too much ‘hinging’ where the foil steps down in the tail so I might try to beef that up with some extra glass.
Hopefully I can get some pics that better show the deck contours. It’s kind of nuts looking in person. My ‘real’ shaper friends just scratch there heads at this foolishness.
hunter
Quote:
How do I glass this thing to keep it from breaking? Particularly the super thin stringerless tail...?
A layer of cloth tape along the rail in that area? Two layers of cloth on both sides of the board as well as far as I am aware.
How many people will be bummed if I elect to hand laminate this board rather than vac laminate?
How many people think I will produce a better board if I vacuum?
Honestly, I think you’d be hard-pressed to tell the difference between a vacuumed and hand-lammed stringerless EPS board.
I’ve had 3 Coil boards over the past 2 years and recently held a hand-lammed stringerless EPS with a similar glass schedule. I couldn’t tell a difference and the hand-lammed board was actually finished out much better.
The difference between a 60/40, 50/50, 40/60 resin to glass ratio is probably on the order of ounces either way on a shortboard. If you can pull a nice tight lam it may be much easier and quicker with less expendables. This is a POS DIY board after all :D, K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid).
What’s your glass schedule (you may have already mentioned it and I missed it, sorry). That will probably have more effect than whether you vacuum bag it or not, what your glass schedule is, how you lay it up (orientation) and how many of those (if any) lap the rails.
yeah decisions are harder with bi-polar…
…do it the way you think will make you feel most happy.
Shoots… if I don’t vac then I’ll have to change the name of the thread… again.
I cut out my laminates tonight. They are prepped as follows:
Full length 4 0z E bottom with small lap. 1/2 length 4oz E bottom patch (for tail half).
Full length 4 oz top with small lap. 3/4 length 4 oz E deck patch. 4 oz front foot patch. 4 oz tail patch.
The whole lot will be sheathed in 2 oz after vacuum. I’m thinking I’ll need some rail reinforcement.
I’m not using anything fancy because I already have all the stuff above. We shall see how this goes.
Have I been acting bipolar? I’m not sure that is the correct diagnosis, though it probably on the right track… i’m thinking ocd perhaps?
hunter
vacbag it youll be very surprised on how much tighter your rails will turn out and a much lighter board will be, if you use peel ply or perferated release film. if you have solid release film just make up a pad with thumbtacks sticking out and puncture all over the film so any excess resin will come out. alot of people claim that a good hand lam job is as good but i dont think some one can get all the air out of ther lams no way in hell, your going to get a better bond and you can do all your patches at once just make sure you use slow cure resin so your not rushing through the bagging process. also your resin to glass ratio will be much closer. if you have a scale weigh the material that your putting on the board and then you should be able to put that amount in resin. so your ratio will be 1:1, but thats if you wet your material out prier to putting it on the board, the reason is the eps will soak it up if the glass is already on the board and youll end up with a heavier board at the end and much more brittle. you wont be dissapointed i know it sounds like a lot of prep work and hasle but at the end your going to get a lighter and much stronger board at the end.
will
Todays attempt a vac bagging the lam was a bust. Chalking this up to experience. I tried the wet out table method. The wet out cloth was just too unweildy to get onto the blank without huge wrinkles and such. Wasted alot of cloth today. Pissed.
Blank is still ok. After a while in the bag it became apparent that this wouldn’t work out well and I pulled the plug and peeled off the glass. Ahhrgghhh.
Don’t feel so bad, I went full tilt with my infusion fiasco. At first all was well and I thought my fifteen or so experiments had paid off, I tested the boundaries, refined my technique, what could go wrong? Well, after the perfect transfer of resin throughout the laminate, I noticed some smoke from under the board, lifted up the board and found the bottom totally sucked in. It sucked… I’ll post a thread soon, I’ve been to busy lately.
It happens and this is one of those times when the benefits are the lessons of experience.
Josh
“making fins is like shaping a little board”
so true hahaha
any updates on this board?
It's really super easy. Do one side at a time and use a rocker table if it's stringerless. 7hg no wrinkles.
Surfding
surfding
did you ever try to double bag on the rocker table?
wouter
Wouter:
What do you mean by double bag?
Complete layup?
I do one side at a time is that wrong?
Should I do it all in one shot?
its easy to do a complete lam in one hit. but you have to change your lay up in a drastic way. have you ever looked at wraping a board with glass stripping? on a compsand for instance i do it with a roll of 100mm wide 2oz wraped twice for 4oz total. and its good fibre spread direction too, not 90/90 like with plain weave but roughly 45/45 because you go the oposite way when you wrap 2nd time round. then lam oneside, wait for gel then hit otherside. it takes a little to get used to but it works
kinda like wrapping a vaulting pole in a retarded kinda way. lol
there is more to this tho. you can clamp a lam with peel ply and get beta results, but the other thing too is with vav baggin that you not only optimise ur fibre/resin ratio but you get a more dent resistant lam because of the bag and vacuum. this is because the temp is higher inside the bag as it cures and the knock on effect is a faster cure.
Thanks Moomfish.
I have done my bagging one side at a time. No wrinkles.
For reduced production time it would be great to do it in one shot.
Otherwise I don't see the point in bagging because of the time factor?