I’ve prepared the outline of my blank by sawing it into it’s shape using a template and then squaring off the sides. I’ve even shaped the bottom rockers at the nose and tail. So now I have to take some foam off the top of the blank. I will need to take at most about 3/8" off the middle and to near only 1/8" near the tail and vanishing to 0 right at the tail as the tail looks good right now. I just have not yet given the rail any shape yet. So I have the overall rocker but my board is too thick.
Here’s my question: If I use a cheap planer like my Harborfreight, I will have to shave progressively less as I work from the middle of the blank to the tail. So ideally, I would simply put my hand on the knob and control the depth by rotating the knob. I don’t mind this but am I doing this too tediously or should I buy a planer that can do this using a sort of trigger action. I don’t mind going slow and rotating the knob - it will work for me. I’m just curious what most people would do in this situation.
By the way, I realize that it’s a little more complicated as I move out from the stringer. I’m really just trying to get an answer for this down the stringer. I will need to check with some templates I have for how the thickness varies from the stringer out to the rail - let’s view that as a detail for now.
I realize that I can make multiple passes and do a little at a time, and do more passes near the center, if that helps any. That’s how I did the rocker shape since my rocker was different from the blank’s original rocker.
…the problem is that you have the wrong blank for your design, so you cannot take the foam from the bottom…in this case you describe you ll take it from the deck, so you ll finish with a very soft board where you stomping foot will be.
The better if you take couple of pictures in different angles so we can see what s going on (wrong?) with your foil.
I agree with you 100%. When I originally shopped for blanks, I had wanted to take most of the foam off the bottom. But when I got the blank in and took a photo of it, that idea didn’t work out too well. I might have to shape the board differently than my computer-designed shape. I don’t mind that. I need to get you a pic or two. Hold on. Thanks.
I have about 3" center thickness (2 31/32") down the stringer. My design calls for taking this down to 2 5/8", actually 2 37/64", so I guess Im going to have to have a thicker board - I have some other blanks in my garage - I don’t know - I really like the shape of my 2 5/8" board. It’s nice looking. I might have to shorten this board and make a fish. Or just surf a soft board until I fix it.
Y8eah, the rocker of the blank I chose is too high at about 12 - 18" from both the nose and tail so I had to just approximate it there. It’s a shame - I won’t
be able to prove out my design with this board. No big deal in the long run - I’ll just be more careful and find another blank with a different rocker. I went with
a blank with 2 1/4 and 5 5/16 while my design is 2 1/2 and 5 3/8. I overlayed a pic and it looked ok profile over profile. It looked like my board would fit in fine.
Y8eah, the rocker of the blank I chose is too high at about 12 - 18" from both the nose and tail so I had to just approximate it there. It’s a shame - I won’t
be able to prove out my design with this board. No big deal in the long run - I’ll just be more careful and find another blank with a different rocker. I went with
a blank with 2 1/4 and 5 5/16 while my design is 2 1/2 and 5 3/8. I overlayed a pic and it looked ok profile over profile. It looked like my board would fit in fine.
If I had had more thickness in the 12 - 18" areas from the nose and tail I would have been able to have the exact rocker curve on the bottom. I’m a little off there. It’s a different board.
A thought occurred to me - I could shave the middle of the bottom some and make a board with less rocker in the tail and the nose - this would solve the 12 - 18 problem and I would just have a little less rocker. Maybe.
I don’t mind having a board with less nose and tail rocker. I already have what I call a 2-5 that surfs pretty well - this one would be even better since I’ve pulled the nose in more. It might be pretty fun - it would actually be about 5 1/8 2 1/4 no problem there.
Just kidding there, ok, so I want to make the final decision. Would using some extra deck glass and keeping the same shape as now but shaving almost 3/8" off of the top at least be acceptable. Is it disastrous in your opinions. Frankly, I have a board with both pressure dings and deck crush but it surfs great.
So I think I will just shave the top down and live with some extra dings. I don’t really stand near the middle of the board anyway - I sort of straddle it except maybe a little like around 48" down it will be a bit tight. I’m talking like 30 to 54" is where the board will be “soft” due to excess planing.
But just in your opinions, it will be ok, won’t it? It just won’t be as solid a board. I want to get this board done soon.
It sounds to me like your happy with the template and rocker you’ve shaped, your also happy with the thickness in the nose and tail. If thats the case you can either plain the extra depth from the middle and a deck patch to add some more strength or ride a slightly thicker board than intended.
Ideally you remove as little as possible from the deck but if you have the rocker and bottom the way you want, just plane the deck down to your desired thickness and add a deck patch when it's glassed. It's not like it's going to implode or anything... maybe just a bit more prone to denting. Most all boards dent eventually anyway. Some guys prefer dents saying it gives them a precise spot to place their feet.
