Hey Ho everyone.
I have a vintage board that has a twist in it due to:
A. Bad Glassing
B. Bad Clark Foam
C. Stringer that warped
My question is does any one have an Idea how to remove or correct the twist?
Now I do not mean to be an ass (more than I normally am) but please no suggestions of “Why Bother” and the like, I’m just looking for Ideas here.
I was once told years ago that you can place a board in a Silver Boardbag and strap it to some saw horses in the hot sun.
Over the course of a few days you can increase blocking under the twist and can continue to tighten down the straps until you get to the point of twisting it the opposite direction.
I had some limited success doing this on a vintage Bing Noserider.
I’m looking for any other Ideas that might work.
Is this a Chubby Checkers era board?
No Led Zeppelin 1970s
I have seen Mr. Jim Phillips perform wonders on a twisted board. Give him a call, or ping him here.
I guess I picked up my technique from Jim Phillips during my time with him, but I can’t remember exactly.
It could have been from Dick Morales of Clark Foam, because that’s when I really used it. When you’re doing
mold plugs for Clark, you’re putting a LOT of cloth on (has to stand up to the concrete molding process).
More cloth means more resin to shrink and more twisting forces. And you want to make sure the plug comes
out spot-on straight. I had the advantage of doing this in the week after lamination, on a 30 yr old board you’re
probably going to have to heat it some.
It’s close to what you described, you’re going to apply a force to twist the board the opposite way and hold it.
Bill’s idea of getting with JKP is best, but if that’s not going to work I can help you.
I agree…heat and twist the other way.
Jeff Kruthers had a longboard from me that he loved before the twist, then loved it even more with the twist…said he could dangle all ten over the nose and climb and drop at will at John’s Pond and other spots.
He asked me to dupe it with the twist…here’s the clue on twisting…his board got twisted from being stuck at an angle inside a little camper he had on a truck he drove on the beach at Hollister…it twisted from the heat and the torque it was experiencing.
Good luck.
Your twist is most likely caused by rough storage over the last 45 years, but the way to fix it is, get some 2x2’s, cut 2 @ 24", 2 @ 48".
Butt them in pairs of each and drill 1/2" holes @ 2" from the butted end and @ 20", thread 6" carraige bolts with wing nuts through the holes.
Slip them over the nose and tail with the long arms in opposite sides of the board. If it has a glass on fin, remove one 6" bolt, then replace it after getting it around the fin.
Now the arms have to be installed so the the leverage will take out the twist rather than increasing it.
A set of stands or sawhorses will work fine, but the board needs to be placed with support under the stringer, it needs to balance on its center, so as it de-twists it can freely float.
Get a couple of sand bags or several gallon cans filled with whatever and hang them on the long arms, you will need help doing this, if not the board will flip. Check every few days, it will take some time, not 45 years, but still takes time. Increase the weight if needed, works everytime
Thanks for the idea, that’s close to what I was gonna do, but might work without the heat.
@ jimthegenius when you say install the arms you are refferring to the 48 inch pieces of 2x2 correct? the way I understand your description I will need to basically clamp the nose and tail between the 24 inch pieces of wood and the 48 inch pieces of wood off set so that a 48 inch piece is on top on one end and bellow on the other end of the board then hang the water jugs or sand bags cadey corner on each end while balancing it on a laminating rack or something to that effect? Also You say to drill 1/2 inch holes at 2inches from the butt end of the wood and @ 20 inches but I needa little clarification if you can… I assume your speaking about centering the 24 inch piece on the 48inch piece then drilling through both pieces 20" from the butt end of the 48" piece and 2 inches from the butt end of the 48" piece (so the weight can hang from the holes at 2" and the wood can clamp together using the holes at 20")? Thanks in advance for the clarification I am looking forward to trying this method on my caster twin fin… 
on the tree to sea forum there are many examples of rocker tables. it would take some effort but if the board is important to you, it would work well and with the benifit of accuracy with the rocker adjustments. i don’t see another way to restore the rocker accurately which is affected by the twist (obviuosly! duh!). hope it gives you some insperation!
[img_assist|nid=1060253|title=rocker table|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=747|height=564]
actually I think I’m retarded… I get it now… duh… BUTT them up so they are equal on one end and 24" longer on the other end this way there is pleanty of leverage when the weight is hung on the long ends, then drill holes at 2" and 20" and bolt them together. I already have mine built and am going to get started on the project tonight. Thanks for the design/ideas.