How to Match Color on Resin Tints?

  1. What is the best way to match colors on a resin tint with both sides tinted the same color?

Can you mix up a large amount of resin and tint(no catalyst) and then set aside half of it in a bucket with a lid for next day? This way you would have exactly the same amount of tint in the resin.

  1. Also has anyone used “Tint All” From Home Depot. It comes in a little tube and has many colors to chose from versus the primary colors at mitches. Is it basically the same stuff? Any bad experiences? I used it once and seems to work well.

You are right on with the mixing up a larger batch of resin, no MEKP. I also think it should be filtered. On the Home Depot tint. On a surfboard you need the tint to be UV protected. I have seen a yellow tint that came for SoCal to NorCal, about a 5 hour drive the board was a different color unter the straps then it was under the straps. Just my thoughts

Yep D.D.

     Mix all the resin at once so the colour is uniform.

The stuff u use the next day might get a little thick if

not sealed overnite so add a little styren to get nice

vercosity.

Tint’s; the best come from the U.S.A. Ted Wilson c/-f/gls

Hawaii with offices in nth/sth/Cal

I would not go with the home depot stuff. I don’t trust that place for anything but the necessities…and sometimes they screw that up as well.

Here’s a couple of resources

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=50&

This is my preference

http://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/pigments.asp

Drew

Thanks for confirming my guess. In defense of the home depot tint all i used it on a board over a year ago with no bad side effects yet. If none have surfaced yet it may be safe. I just want to be sure long term for my next board so i was looking at the Yellow Oxide Pigment Mustard yellow pigment. on fiberglass warehouse. I want a mustard yellow but more a deli mustart than french’s mustard. Has any one seen this color and which it more resembles? Also to do an opaque color do you simply add white?

Mr.Dive

Here is where the fun begins.

Pigments work like this…the more you add the more richer and opaque they become. Usually by adding white and or black this helps with the opaquness. However, some pigments will never become 100% opaque. There are limits to how much pigment resin can take before weakening.

Never used that particular pigment before but have seen many boards in the color range that look real cool. As far as getting the color you want, here is my advice, purchase that particular color that is closest and then add a white, black and several tertiary colors…red, blue, yellow. then take a decent sized chunk of foam for your testing grounds.

Get a bunch of small plastic cups and 2"x2" scraps of the cloth you will be using to glass with and just start going to town mixing colors and testing them by glassing the scraps to the scrap of foam. Can’t emphasise this process enough.

Keep records of what you did, added what to what, and how much of what. Eventually you’ll get a really cool color. And have a guide to go by when you glass your board.

ONE NOTE, it is unwise to mix different brands of pigment. Stick wih one manufacturer.

Drew

So what is too much tint? Is there a rule of thumb such as no more than X # of tablespons per quart of resin?

yes there is.

Add about 5 to 7% of pigment by weight or a little under 1/2 pint of pigment per gallon of resin.

Normally about .5oz is fine to do a semi-transparent tint to a longboard. Su adjust according to opaquness without going over the limit above.

Best to add slowly and test as you go

Drew

Drew, (or anyone)

Are the pigments for sale at mitch’s or the liquid pigments from Fiberglass Warehouse suitable for making transparent tints?

the kid at mitch’s told me they were only for opaque colors and sent me to an art supply store, where the owner recommended using ground pastels as pigment. Would that work for selecting specific colors without having to mix?

thanks,

-rob

Hastings

That kid is a moron. Could not have been more incorrect if he tried.

Any pigment that is for use in either epoxy or polyester resin will allow for transparent tints.

It all depends on how much you add. The more pigment you add the more opaque and richer the color gets.

Terms like, tint, transparency, opaqueness are confusing but in reality they all do the same thing to resin…color it.

True, some pigments are more opaque than others, but even those are can be transparent when adding only a small amount to resin.

Your best bet is to purchase the small 1oz jars from Fiberglass wharehouse or wherever, and spend an afternoon testing small bits of cloth to find combinations you like. You’ll be amazed at what an afternoon of research will do for your learning curve.

Drew

thanks drew,

the same kid sold me a couple wrong items in the past.

i figured he was wrong on this one, but didn’t want to question him.

i’m sure he could direct me to a nice 5’10" shred stick though. hehe

only joking… if i knew half the crap i have acted like i know, i wouldn’t have to work for a living.

:smiley:

Duckdive,

I used the home depot tints in both polyester and epoxy but only for repairs and smaller projects (never a whole board). Keep in mind they are only translucent colors. So yes, you would need to add white (base/pigment) to create any kind of an opaque affect. And, I would only buy a white base that’s specific for polyester or epoxy resin(s).

I think this may take some confusion out of coloring:

Tint = coloring additive to resin, which creates a translucent affect. Adding more tint only makes the color more vivid, deeper (not really opaque).

Opaque = a combination of a tint and white pigment, which creates a non-translucent affect (or semi-translucent depending on how much base is added).

Pigment = technically white is the only true pigment (base) but it is often used to describe other pre-mixed colors that already have white mixed in.

Best,

Herb