I want to spray artwork/designs onto my 9’4" surftech Robert August wingnut nose rider. Being an epoxy surface I’m curious of what kind of spray paint to use. And if it drastically matters whether it’s a spray can or an air brush/air spray gun? Any and all advice is much appreciated
Krylon rattle cans.
Ok thanks. A clean and light sand of any surface area to be painted would be necessary? Also is a clear coat finish over any artwork/design a must?
Personally, I’ve found acrylic lacquer with a top coat of clear for protection the best option, I don’t know if Krylon is the same stuff but you can probably get a clear with that as well. I also use water based paints as the art then clear with acrylic as well, a piccy below that was done this way. This board was an epoxy as well.
Yes, you’ll need to degrease well first then rub back with say 400-600 depending on how good the surface is, spray just enough colour to cover for your art then apply a few good coats of clear. Wait until you can no longer really smell any reducer (overnight say) then you can rub back with 400-600 again then 800 with soap then buff for shine. If you just want a speed (sanded/matt) finish, just use 400 and soap. If you want a really good polished finish, do a couple of coats of clear and rub back to 600 to ‘block out’ the first clear coat then apply again for finish, depends on how far you want to go.
It doesn’t matter what type of paint you use at this stage as it is all subject to damage unless you paint the blank before glassing. I’d rank durability from enamels -> lacquers -> 2K (2 pack) being the toughest finish.
Hope that helps.
Just for the record, if it’s a regular surftech, the finished surface is not epoxy; it’s a 2-component urethane, not unlike the the paint on your car. This really doesn’t make much difference, though. Make sure the desired area is clean of all waxes, oils, soils, saliva, gluten- or peanut-based products, flavored vitamin water, etc. Only touch it with clean-gloved hands from this point on. If you’re gonna paint or clear the whole board, scuff the whole thing now. If not, then mask desired area. Lightly scuff to degloss the factory finish (300 to 400-ish grit sandpaper give or take, or fresh scotch-brite works). Blow or brush off your scuffing dust thouroughly. Make sure your masking hasn’t lifted anywhere. Do not wipe with any solvent, towels, tack-rags, etc. Paint your graphics. Rattle-cans are great. Remove your masking. Clear-coating it is a good idea, but you’re not under any moral obligation to do so. Now stand back and enjoy your radical new look. Oh yeah!
How creative do you want to get? A simple design ca be done as others have posted. If you need to do some repairs or if the finish is peeling in some areas You should take are and feather is the peel areas use an undercoat to make sure you have really blended in the repairs and or peeled paint. Use a clean list free rag to wipe the board down. Make sure all your tape is pressed down tight bleeding under the tape is a common problem. Watch some videos on doing custom auto finishing the process is pretty much the same. There are some excellent acrylic airbrush paints made for the custom bike and auto market. They work well on top of fiberglass and epoxy boards. They have some flex so less likely to creak and peel. Clear coat will protect your work.still it is only paint it will not hold up to a ton of abuse.
You could also use a two part marine Ploy Urethane They also make some really good one part ploy Urethane paints that you can find at just about any boat supply store like West Marine. 80% of a professional job is in the prep work. If you screw up it’s only paint and sand paper is cheap.
Thank you Artz and to new skool blue also. It’s all detailed and thorough advice. I appreciate both of your feedback
Walk n Glide,
Go for it – if you dont like it sand and start again. Heck, I usually get tired of my art or need to do a repair so I just sand off and do something different about every year or two. People keep asking me if I have a new board each time.
You should do a search here on U-Pol for the clear top coat over your art work. Many guys use and recommend it to cover art work. After their advice I got some at an auto paint supply shop. Its rattle can with UV and it holds up better than any hardware store clear topcoat that Ive used. If you apply enough coats you can wetsand and polish. WARNING if you plan on using U-Pol make sure you get the proper respirator mask with the proper cartridge – its definately not a modern home user / non-toxic / off the shelf spray can.