how would you fix this?

Hi Carl, Yes, double six deck and single six bottom. i’ve used this glassing schedule on quite a few of my deep buttcrack EPS/Epoxy boards and haven’t yet had any issues (until now.) my polys also used this schedule and were basically bulletproof. in fact, you guys at Arrow glassed one of them and it’s become one of my favorite personal boards.

this one was glassed by a very reputable “pro” who has reluctantly switched over to Epoxy due to his main account going totally EPS/Epoxy. I’ve been using the material lately as it’s readily available and Marlin has no problems with matching rockers, etc. on his machine. In fact, i’ve grown to appreciate the stuff. I didn’t notice any signs of sand through. Maybe the batch was mixed incorrectly…

the rider was my 215 lb. friend. he claims there was no impact and i believe him. Like LESider said, the tail is otherwise pristine. I’m already in the process of making him a replacement fish - this one will get repaired and live out the rest of it’s life in someone elses hands.

kirk

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That should not have happened. There has to be something that we are not being told here. You said (2) 6oz on the deck and one on the bottom? There would have to have been some serious sanding through for that to have happened. Did you glass it? was it done by a so-called “Pro?” Perhaps the resin was mixed incorrectly… there had to be an impact… or something of the sort, that just doesn’t happen on bottom turns. Who was riding the board when that happened… you? Or the customer? If it was the customer- he’s full of sh*t. Reminds me of the gal that “broke her board in half paddling out in mushy 2’ surf” that came in to the factory a couple weeks after purchasing a new board. Sure. That happens all the time. but we still fixed it… blaaa! -Carl

split was the wrong description sorry doc

what i meant was continue the stringer out to the tips by addding in wood

i glue up my own perimeter stringers, so I dont think it would be that hard, say about 10 minutes.

or to shape for that matter

but i guess im used to different techniques from building composites.

but yes I agree, you are correct

the simplest solution to what seems to be stringer related hinge effect

would be to have no stringer

or perimeter stringers

i agree wholehartedly with this statement

and its a simple design issue which can be addressed

to improve the quality and durability of the fish design

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Where you have an abrupt change in flex characteristics and at the same time that notch, well, add to that the differing adhesion of wood and foam and you got a potential problem.

adding more glass to the rail is a quick fix solution

and wouldnt be acceptable in say, aircraft design.

they would try and get it right

If you want to have somebody else fix it, I’ve always had good luck with Felix Alfaro over at Sand Dollar.

Here is a way to avoid the problem:

OK, I’m a smart ass.

But it works.

Wow, it’s getting a bit complicated here. I like to keep it simple. It’s called a butterfly patch. You put it under the lam. On the tail. Problem gone.

Lokbox, Please give us some details. thx

yah man

cool

i like you thinking

ive thought of a few different stringer combos

but still perimeter stringers or none at all seem like the most pratical solution.

not sure what you mean by the butterfly patch

but if use use glass as a solution, it would have to overlap over the stringer and fins area

to reduce the hinge effect

Someone fixed the problem.

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Lokbox, Please give us some details. thx

Well the custom split stringers are way cool. For people that can’t get that, a butterfly patch just about doubles the strength of those swallow ears. Doesn’t look like that board has one but hard to tell from the pic. I see lots of glassers tacking glass-ons onto a single layer of lam, then later wondering why the fin busted off on a bottom turn. Even for thrusters a small football shaped patch, under the lam where the fin sits will give a much better foundation for a glassed on fin to sit on (or plug/box to sit within), as opposed to just one layer. If the base of fin(s) can flex slightly that may turn into a wiggle and slowly seperate the underside of the fin from the lam(or loosen your plug or box)… and POP! there goes your fin. A second layer under the fin decreases this significantly. For fishes with glass-ons using a butterfly patch extending from a couple inches in front of the fins all the way off the tail you eliminate that weak point right where the fin roving ends…which coincidently nearly lines up with the end of the stringer on most keel fishes. Something to think about anyways…

That’s the ticket

Sure is interesting to see that failure though. Makes me think about the denser skin on a PU, the big loads big stiff keels relocate, the stuff what Silly said, how that guy should have been surfing off his front foot…

kidding, but there are lots of lessons from this failure–your most catastrophic failures can be the most helpful for sure

I’m gonna go look at some threads about perimeter glue stringers, like cutting the rails off a shaped blank and gluing them back on for final shaping.