Here in Jax Beach Florida, it turned off shore around 2:00. We have had decent waves all afternoon at chest plus. I just ran down the street to snap this one for you guys. The poles was larger and better as it allways is.
’ it’s picking up !’ [according to our ‘surf reporters’ !]
’ Trigg ‘Point’, in all its glory !!! [THIS is the time of year when the ‘banks’ form , and it ‘breaks’]. It has been voted one of the ten most overrated / hyped breaks in the world, in several surf mags over the last few years ! Now you can see why…
…glad to see washington state is getting waves, at least…you get 34 fahrenheit, we get 34-38 celsius [100 fahrenheit].
thanks for your pics, crew ! [ It's interesting seeing where / what people are surfing in your winter there ! ]
ben
We’ve had huge waves this past week. The past two days were quite small, 1-3 ft. It was pretty small today, but one break, the inside kiddie break called “Baby Chun’s” was going off for a couple of hours. It’s basically the inside break of Chun’s Reef and for some reason, I think it was due to swell direction, and it was totally fun. The wave would come in the deeper channel area between Chun’s and Jocko’s, break a bit on the outside, then double up when it hit the inside shelf, making for steep hollow drop. More than one surfer was caught off guard when the wave would jack on the flat shelf. Even Ben Aipa paddled out and enjoyed a few of the peeling hollow breakers. I got to try my latest board backside for the first time and was quite happy with the the speed, looseness, and drive I had been hoping for.
Small, Junky, Choppy, Too High on the tides or too low on the tides, onshore, crowded, crowded, crowded, crowded, messy, crappy, small Waves at Manly today…
on south coast the NW swell has wraPPED AROUND giving chest high offshores, West coast has been better OH++ but more crossshore/onshore. West coast getting big onshore surf (4M +) for next week. Will watch the winds on the south west coast & may get a couple of hours of Overhead offshore during the week, Decent conditions to test my new performance mal.
stinking hot , no swell , except some freak tidal surge that washed in around my car parked on the beach yesterday while i was sandboarding in the dunes above …
when i got home i saw the news …
it came up where we are about 1.5 meters about 9 hours after the quake …
pretty scary stuff in the north indian ocean around indo…
The Baltic Sea has started freezing so it’s time for skating the ice instead of surfing the windslop. Won’t melt until in May, so I’ve already bought some airline tickets…
Surfed the Ventura Overhead yesterday with my wife and brother in-law. It was a few feet overhead on the sets, very low tide, thick kelp, curious seals and fun, fun, fun…