help i am stuck.i got my hws to this stage a couple of years ago but being my first i made a few mistakes i didnt finish my rail correctly at the nose and tail so i tried to cut a vee in it and make a block to fill it i could get it to work any suggestion the board is about 7’ 6" anf weigths about 17 kilograms is this heavy
my rails are hollow only first two and last arent i think i will do what Paul suggested andglue on tail block and use for
practise my rail shaping and learn from my mistakes thank everyone for your help
A good stiff saw blade e.g., a backsaw for cutting dovetails/miters will get you the best edge to work with. Personally, I’d use a straightedge as a guide to cut the pieces. But honestly, it is going to be tough to get a nice fit. A much easier way would be to cut it off square at the end (a router run along a straight edge will give you a glue line worthy edge) and glue on a block of wood. Way less complicated and higher likelihood of looking reasonably good.
If you make another hws, definitely concentrate on getting the weight down. Using the Jensen technique, you should be able to build a 7’6" well under 9 kg, probably closer to 7kg.
vangoo,
Make a sanding block in the shape of a diamond 4 or 5 inches tall, and using a square guide block on the hull, sand with the sanding block carefull to keep it in the same plane as you sand deeper into the V.
Once you get a nice flat surface, Cut your sanding block just a little bigger than the board and epoxy it in to final shape later, or have a special piece of wood the same shape as the sanding block diamond.
thanks for advice thank i might just start again and try to make it a bit lighter
What made it so heavy?..try removing the rails , planing off the whole bottom panel , then see if you can get the weight down… a Jap pullsaw should cut through a cork rail stringer neat enough to re-use them.
i used the jensen method but the ply i used was 3mm hardwood bracing ply thats where the weight is from i think
17kg…? How thick are the frame and decks? Those rails look meaty too.
Two things…
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I’m betting the rails were laid up solid, not hollow…Twice the weight that way…
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The rails aren’t shaped, figure you’ll loose about a third of the rail weight that way…
I’ve weighed my boards before any rails and after shaping…I figure that done right, the rails add about a pound…
I say, add a square tail block and use it for rail shaping practice…After that you decide whether it should be glassed…
There-in lies the weight problem…it’s quite do-able to replace the internal frame with the bottom skin and rails removed…it will depend on your motivation and patience and a well thought out plan of attack…you will have options for lighter rails and bottom skin.
[img_assist|nid=1075702|title=Nose block of padauk for HWS|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640]
[img_assist|nid=1075703|title=Rough cut of padauk nose block|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640]
Jensen answered your question. We have established in another thread that I am gluing with epoxy incorrectly, but I thought you’d like to see what someone else who has no idea what he is doing, did. I cut off the end with a Japanese pull saw, sanded down with my block itself as the sanding block, epoxy and tape secured it on, epoxy filled all the gaps, rough cut the shape, and sanded and sanded and sanded. My profile pict is the result. I did it wrong, but it came out nice. You could do it it better with advice here.