WOW, they are magnificent.
I’ve seen your router jigs before and they produced some works of art, (transparent fish mal) but I hope you have your big boys toys license for these things.
You might need a chainsaw jig…
I bought just the one on the left, the one on the right to be shaped by another.
This is surfboard shaping at it’s most primal level. It’s something I’d love to do one day. Keep the updates coming man. I’d say there’s quite a few punters on this site who’ll be following with great interest!
I hope you’re going to have the video camera rolling throughout the build. 
That’s a tough project. The first thing that came to mind was one of those old profile jigs with the router on a dual track to set the rocker and give you a starting surface. Seems like a lot of work, but a chunk of wood like that don’t come around that often. Cheering you on for success!
Yes Tom, good point, that was my thinking too.
A lot of factors influencing the final shape are dictated by the wood itself. And it helps to have a plan B, and C, if the lumber doesn’t want to cooperate with plan A.
Wow. I mean, like, wow. I just now checked this thread out. Huck, knowing you, it’ll be awesome. Looking forward to the progression on this one. I’m just bummed that wideawake beat me to the Big Z comparison, cause that’s the first thing I thought of when I saw the initial post.
Just remember: long strokes. Looooooooong stroookes . . .
I’d never have the nerve to attempt a HWS board, but if I did I would definitely use your method for that. Your Lightning Bolt board and the driftwood-look board are both by far my favorite HWS boards.
But this project takes it to a whole 'nother level.
Thnx for the support and encouragement - I’ve been browsing the internet and studying the old wood boards. Really looking forward to seeing some historical woodies in person!
Kinda rolling the possibilities around in my head: add a nose and tail block to make a 10 footer; add some wide stringers to minimize the rail rot, splice in a patch at the rail rot; chamber it for lightness, etc, etc.
As stable as WRcedar is, that slab of wood could still warp or twist once you begin removing material. A few VG stringers could inhibit that possible propensity.
I just ordered some shaping tools…
I have one of those angle grinder wheels (the solid arbortech version) and only used it a couple of times. Make sure you’re wearing gloves - the chips hurt!
I had forgotten I had it - I do need to find a project to use it on again.
Huck - look into one of these https://kutzall.com/collections/sanding-discs
They work really good for removing a lot of material real fast or slow if you ease up and feather it.
Ok thnx 4 all the suggestions! Studying US Blanks catalog, and working by hand and eye, I created a full size masonite rocker template I really like, 4 1/2" nose 3" tail, on a 9’ 3" board. Which is not too different from the rocker shaped into my blank, if I reverse it.
I painted my rocker template white, and tacked it up in front of my wood blank, then just stood back and eyeballed it as straight on as I could, to see how much trimming to start with. I used a paint brush and white paint so I can see what to cut off to clean it up.
You can see from the first two pics that my rocker is a good fit to the rough cut of the wood, which was my intended goal. Which I might add, in spite of the fact I reversed the blank, is a testament to the effect that the guy who rough cut this beast must’ve been a pretty savvy shaper (who WAS this guy??), or else one or both of us was just very lucky!
This is my rough shape to clean things up, so there is still room for adjusting the rocker as I do the actual shaping, after a trip to the museum. I tacked my rocker template to the wall flip side out and mapped out my approximate foil using a paintbrush and white primer. Just visualizing in 2D but actual size. I’m planning on the finished board being a little over 3" at the thickest point.
And while this thing is HEAVY cuz it’s so big, I really hope that once I shape away the excess, its gonna be light enough that I won’t have to chamber it.
Also been drawing more sketches and thinking about the template.
Sending Huck energy & inspiration for taking this bucket list item on! This project separates the men from the boys IMHO. I hope you have a fork lift to move it… can’t wait to see the blow by blow and of course the finished product… Neither of these work for sh-t on today’s new foam, but will absolutely sing on the big ol’ hunk 'o wood! I suggest you pick up of copy of the song that goes “16 tons whattya get… another day older & deeper in debt… I owe my soul to the company store”.
However, if this approach catches fire for you, and orders start pouring in, I suggest the “Farm Boss” for production shaping these, it’s light & powerful and feels easy on the hands, kinda like a Skil, but not quite.
…live long and prosper.
I’ve got a drawknife somewhere… but, take a look at the Fram Boss… I just know this is goona go big for you!
Started cleaning up with a sawzall, went about as far as my 12" blade would take me. That blade is kinda floppy, it wasn’t meant to be used like this, it works but is difficult to control at the ends. And of course, with a reciprocating saw, the end keeps bump bump bumping as I cut with the whole blade buried.
This week I will try the chainsaw with a 16" bar, which is much more rigid, and doesn’t bump. But can bind.
At this point I am just taking off the lumps and bumps, but now I have a base rocker line. The chunks I cut off feel very light, curious what this thing will weigh once I get it rough shaped, because at some point I have to decide chambered or solid.
Wow!
Shit now you have really done it!!!
LOL
