thanks foamy ,
great to hear from you mate !
were they 'go-pro' shots you took ?
oldskool , glad you're enjoying them mate .... as I say , I LOVE glassy waves !!
cheers
ben
thursday morning [today in west oz ....[13th january]
7am [a LATE start for me !]...
glassy and backwashy can be an interesting photo opportunity ...
and now , for the "further away views" ...
[ HERE is the culprit , pre-hit !]
marty...
Colin...
[What I look at , while marty and col go left]....a slight breeze starting up , but glassy periods too, this morning ...
Howzit chip, I remember the Surfer Bird because it was kind of a funny song to be a surfing song. Not in the water yet and not sure when or if I will ever be able since my neck still doesn't let me hold it back enough to see in front of me when paddleing and I am really missing it. On top of that I have not even been able to get outof Arizona yet and in the next wek and a half I have 2 doctors appts and 3 tests to go through so I am not going anywhere's for a while. If I find I can't surf anymore then maybe I will start shooting pictures ike you so I can at least be in the ocean close to surfing. It has been really strange not surfing in almost 2 years after surfing for over 50 years, but during those 50+ years I have gotten surf that some surfers can only dream about so I have lived the life of my dreams. Aloha,Kokua
hiya Mike !!
thanks for the reply !!
GREAT , as always , to hear from you , mate !!
and there I was , whinging about having been out of the water [not surfing] for 2 WEEKS ???!!! what a pussy am I ?! 2 YEARS ??!! now , THAT would SUCK , BIG TIME !!
I really hope you can surf again one day [soon?!] , as it's depressing not being able to do something you've been doing MOST of your life , eh ? [40 years surfing , for me .... YOU have 10 years on me , Mike !]
Failing that , I REALLY HOPE you DO take photos , sways NEEDS more photos [ but then again , this is only my opinion , of course]
cheers , and keep the fire [stoke] burning somehow !!
ben
Howzit chip, Not only are you a master fin maker but your photography is really good too, seems that whatever you do ends up being really good and that is what makes for great craftsmen which you are. I was going to move to Austrailia back in 67 but Uncle Sam had different ideas for me and was going to give me a free trip to Southeast Asia instead but that didn't happen and my life was moving in a different direction from Austrailia by then otherwise I would probably still be there. Aloha,Kokua
wow thank god you didn't get to go to 'nam or we may not have had you hear encouraging us sways people eh ?!
hopefully one day you may make it here to woz , in which case I'd LOVE to meet you and catch up.
since I couldn't get chemicals for black and white printing any more [and it costs too much anyway ,
it has been nice to switch to digital
Plus the fin thing keeps me interested in summer , when as you can see our surf pretty much goes on holidays too.
I still have a blank sitting on top of my board stand [it's been there nearly TWO years , I worked out the other day ?!]....so maybe one day that will get shaped too.
while I sit here in perth library on this computer , I'm just starting to figure how to copy my many photo cards onto one usb / 'flash drive' ...so I can then start afresh with the cards
Currently , I have a card for 'fins' , 'fin panels' , 'water shots' , 'miscellaneous' , 'surf shots' ....and I am also planning / hoping to copy more of my old "chipfish61" days photos onto a card too...
.... I miss videoing , actually !!
and skating
and surfing
but ....as I get older and injured..... some things have to be let go of , eh ?!
cheers for your interest and what I consider your friendship , Mike !
ben
Howzit chip, You just turned 50 and you are still young and shuld be doing all the things you have been doing for years. I was still in full stride till the cancer hit me and it took that to slow me down but am trying to find a new nitch thats I am able to do that doesn't tire me out since that is one of the big problems I have to deal with these days. Don't let yourself say I can't do that but say yes I can do that and keep that attitude in life. I was ready to go to Nam and that was why I joined the Marines but things just turned out differently and was given a medical discharge. The best part was I still had my sticker to get on thebase so I was surfing Trestles til I decided to move to Az for a year or so. Hopefully one day I can make it to Austrailia. Aloha,Kokua
marines , eh ?
so....camp pendleton too ?
did you ever cross paths with george and mctavish if you went there ?
i've seen some GREAT , glassy waves photos of THAT place in the Surfers Journal , looks SICK !!
Howzit chip, Being able to basically surf it when ever I was able meant I surfed it almost by myself or with friends so I never met them but that was years (68')before they opened up to the public so it was never really crowded anyways. I would hang my dog tags around my rear view mirror and the MP's never bothered me or my van, those were some great days. Aloha,Kokua
...That's GREAT STUFF , Mike ! stoked for you , mate ..."yewwww !!! " [as 'young sir josh' used to say , during his time here at sways ]
I just wish we had photos from those days , eh ? ( thank goodness george greenough took his camera[s] with him regularly !]
I STILL watch 'crystal voyager' from time to time [ in my opinion , it's still such a GREAT atmospheric movie ! and , it was definately an early inspiration for me to get in the water with a camera...]
early summer morning ...
late[ish on a] winter evening ....
Miss Sweden 'goggle girl' likes glass , too ...
jellies like glass too ....
In case you're wondering why these are a bit grainier [film days term] than usual ? Due to the darkness of the morning [and the early hour] , I rated them at 400 and 800 iso ...
it had a bit of a southerly lump in it today , too, compared to yesterday's PRISTINE conditions ..... [and crowd to go with them]
