the smell of a new wetsuit
the smell of coconut surf wax
the smell of polyester resin
I love feel of stepping on kelp and popping the bulb at the base of the leaf
I love the crunchy feel of pebbly sand underfoot
I love dropping in on a wave with several guys paddling for it, then looking up, seeing me, and changing their mind!
I love driving to the beach in the dark of dawn, letting my imagination run wild on what the waves will be that day.
I love BOOBS
I love waxing a brand new board
I love the first few paddles out, where you switch from leg motation on a solid world to arm motation in a fluid world
I love a warm wetsuit on a cold day
I love it when several surfers are battling for position to catch a wave and a big dolphin comes along and says I got this one, back off boys, and just powers through the pack, unchallenged
I love the way food tastes so good, and nothing bothers you, after a good surf session
I love it on epic days when you're out in the general public after great waves, and they don't even have a clue that anything special is going on at all.
beaver....or 2 beavers, more the merrier really.....
I love the feel of a board that’s planing early as I paddle into a wave.
I love 3’+ glassy, offshore, uncrowded point waves. (Sheesh, who doesn’t love these?)
Well Guys, (Pridmore, Twisted Stump) I definitely had a good snigger at your responses but you guys suck!
I love that even though I am a responsible adult, wife, three kids, real job, and all that, I still drive WAY too fast on the way for a surf!
I love that 9/10 surfs I will have it all to myself. Aside from the widlife of course.
I love that I can go an entire day and feel like I am playing. My saying is: “Surfing separates the boys from the men.”
Andy
but seriously, I really love beaver....haha......
I love sharing surf sessions with my kids and seeing them stoked on the joy of riding a wave....
I love being able to create surfboards that get customers stoked....
I love surfing my local where I did most of my surfing as a kid and teenager and still getting most of the good ones just coz I know it so well.....
I love the fact that my wife is still getting hotter and most others are getting less attractive as they age....
I love the free feeling of surfing finless...
I love a little left point nearby that only really lines up well ten times a year but when it does it is such a great wave and alot of the time its just me and a few others who are out there
I love surfboards ( probably why I keep more than I sell lately....)
nothing bothers you, after a good surf session
I love it on epic days when you're out in the general public after great waves, and they don't even have a clue that anything special is going on at all.
I like that. Just walking around, physically tired but happy as larry, and relaxed. Awesome feeling.
…how a good lam job shows off the shape, and a good sanding job shows off the glass job.
Being in the perfect spot taking off on a wave and only having to take a few strokes to get in.
Surfing that wave and doing things that you felt you might not still be able to do.
Riding the wave to completion with a nice ease out over the back.
All the things you guy’s mentioned.
It’s called being stoked! Something all my neighbors /non surfing friends don’t understand. I’m 44 and still feel the same regarding all the things you gents mentioned. If this feeling never goes away, I win!
That I turned 62 today and I can still surf.
Hi huck...hope you LOVE all those cyber hugs I've been sending you........:)
I love a pay check....What I love even more is a pay check that doesn't bounce......Even better is a pay check with overtime!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Happy Birthday ACE !!!
go Ace, I'll be doing the same......hopefully with my kids and grandkids riding my boards too....
Happy birthday Ace. Sheesh... another couple of minutes and it will be tomorrow and I'd be too late.
I'm still loving the Rockwell mods to which you turned me on. My shaping has improved quite a bit since I cut the base, loosened the depth adjustment, and reshaped the front grip.
I love
surfing with just me and a few friends
the way that your mind connects with your surfing seeminlgy with no intervention from your body
cold crisp days and 4 ft setty conditions at a lovely local reef
I love going on a mission to check a spot when you'repretty sure its too small and mother nature rewards you with perfect waves and not another soul in sight.
I love the way dawnies smell the same wherever you are in the world
double post
Malibu in the morning…
Oahu in the morning…
Baja in the morning…
