I want to make a traditional longboard

Looking for design information for a traditional longboard something along the lines of a 60’s soft railer. Eggy rails, big fin (not a D fin), something that paddles like a king, cruises, pivot turns and nose rides.

Anyone have rocker measurements ? Anyone have bottom contour descriptions ? Fin types and location?

Jim Philips, please feel free to jump in here…

bobsie------------Just start with a that 10’6H from clark. Skin it and leave the meat in it for paddling. Get yourself a template off some old 60’s stick you like and go from there. If you weigh over 200lbs. you might want to use that 11’ velzy from clark. The rest is up to you and your planer. Find something you like and copy. You don’t have to carve rocker in a board like that it can be adjusted when you order the blank from clark. McDing

whats wrong with the 10’3 phil edwards pigment it blue glass it with double ten and call it baby …ambrose…what tradition/10’6 H ? skin it glass it so you can reshape later like another tradition how bout regular foam?or at least classic?

OK Lads, Im in Australia. No Clark blanks here. Im thinking about 9’6" long.

I would love some direction on rocker measurements.

Also thinking of keeping the bottom fairly flat versus rolled and add eggy rails slightly knifey in the tail, with a concave in the nose and vee in the tail.

Thinking of using a fin box and a 9.75" raked fin with a thickish tip.

Anyone like to offer any advice, I could use it.

http://www.southcoastlongboards.com.au/boards/index.asp

see Rincon style master or Dane Peterson model

OK, now you changed the rules.

You are now making a modern longboard, 9’6" long, with normal bottom and rails.

Just walk into a surfshop, look at the best looking 9’6"er, lay it on the floor, and copy the rocker, take the nose, widepoint, and tail dimensions, note where WP is, go home, buy a blank, and proceed to shape.

OK, My words dont match up with what Im thinking.

Im looking for a board that has that glide (you know) and will suck into the 1-2ft face when it all gets critical perfect for a noseride.

My modern longboard is ok but Im not using it for moden longboarding. Im still drop knee turning, trimming and trying to nose ride.

How rolled should I make the bottom?

A lot of the 60s style boards had quite a bit of crown on deck and bottom. Once you go toward a flat bottom you’ve gone away from a “classic” board. The crown in the bottom lowers the belly down in the water a bit like the hull of a boat, which is where the rounded 50/50 rails allow water to wrap up and over and grab the board (the “stick” you mention). This grab action along the mainly center and possibly rear of the board (if it’s not actually sticking out the other side of the wave) is where you get your “set” for nose rides. As prof. Phillips taught, remember to shape in that tail kick too for noserides. But what do I know…just passing along info.

Hi Bobsie -

If you open this link and go over all the stuff listed under “Classic Longboard”, I think you’ll find what you’re looking for. Run your mouse over the page once it opens - there are 4 pages of info on that one design. Note wide point position, rocker and thickness measurements.

http://www.surfline.com/mag/features/anatomy/anatomy_flash.html

the clark foam catalogue is avaliable on line sombody in england has posted it search google thats where I found it the comments in the catalogue are quite informative as to the’ traditional’ concept traditional has become a catch word and as such has been becoming diluted as a discriptive … ambrose … many measurements in catalogue…isnt there a clark foam australia? or was it out lawed along with the surf industry subsidies

Many thanks everyone. now all i need is for Porf. Philips to check in and offer a token of wisdom.

Woops, im meant ‘prof’ Jim.

OK so the D fin, rolled bottom, narrow nosed, wide point back, big hipped boards are ‘traditional’.

The main board Jim shapes in his Damascus DVD is sort of what im thinking although nothing like the ‘traditional’ stereotype. About 9’6" for me I think.

But I dont think this board in Jims video was bound to be a D fin. More like a single fin box I thought. Could be wrong.

That bottom was subtlely rolled, which appeals to me.

I once rode a very rolled bottom mid length board that sucked.

bobsie, The board in the photos is a 9’6" that was shaped for me by John Sojoski at Wave Signature surfboards, on the NSW Central Coast. The blank is a Surfblanks (Brookvale NSW) I think its called the 62 rocker. platty.



Here’s som info that I found usefull about how Dave Parmenter describes a classic longboard, in “A Surfboard Anatomy” (http://www.surfline.com/mag/features/anatomy/):

[=1]

Quote:

[ 3][i][b]Dimensions (in decimal inches): [/]

Length: 9’8"

Nose: 16.5 inches (at 12 inches down)

Widepoint: 23 inches

Tail width: typically 15 to 16 inches (at 12inches up)

Thickness:

Nose: 1.7 inches (at 12 inches down)

Thickest point: 3 inches

Tail: 1.9 inches (at 12 inches up)

Foil: Thickness usually peaks a little behind center, with the main volume pooled around the behind-center hips and rocker apex. Thickness tapers down to a fairly thin nose and holds a medium volume as it meets the fin/tailblock area. This conjunction of foil, rocker and outline creates the characteristically slow feel of the board when turned from the tail and provides for the marked increase in speed when the rider moves forward to the optimum trim position (usually in the front third of the board), changing the whole angle of attack of the planing surfaces.

Rocker:

Nose: 3.5 inches

Tail: 3.75 inches

The apex, or peak, of the rocker curve is placed much farther back than modern boards and is centered back at the thick-point/hip area. The amount of nose-lift tends to be a lower measurement than the tail. Once again, a feature that shows the separation of the trim position of the board and the sweet spot for turning.

Bottom shape: Bottom is basically convex, as is the deck. This rounded, displacement hull-style bottom fades to a slightly flatter surface near the nose and behind the fin. This tubby hull design has its roots more in boat design – and one method of dealing with pushing a large surface with a weak power source through the water – rather than the modern, flatter planing hull-type of surfboard that skims on top of the water, but requires more power to keep it up on step and planing.

Rails: Rails are the classic 50/50 shape, with the apex at the center of the rail. Some 50/50 rails were completely round-shaped and others were more elliptical or almond-shaped. It’s a user-friendly, soft and stable rail shape but, being edge-free (water-flow wraps around rounder rails but doesn’t do so as easily around a sharp edge or corner), it’s slower and almost impossible to surf with modern body English.

Tail shape: Rounded squaretail, which carries the rail line to its maximum extension, providing the greatest amount of tail area and thus allowing for more flotation and speed in slower, weaker waves.

Stringer: .375 inches redwood/spruce/redwood T-band

Glass specs: Two layers of 10 ounces. Volan cloth top and bottom.

Fin setup: The classic longboard fin is a crude affair, little more than a stabilizer. These squarish, clumsy rudders were designed when the sciences of aerodynamics were still just so much unfathomable mumbo-jumbo. Tips were as wide as the bases, had near-vertical leading edges and were poorly foiled. So much drag was created that you can see them throwing off rooster tails in the old surf films taken at faster waves like Sunset.

Performance envelope: 1 to 4 feet

Optimum generic example: Any early to mid-'60s Hobie production board, or similar brand of that era

[/b][/i][/]

Hey thanks Platty (and the rest of you guys),

While I know thats not a traditional 60’s soft railer (per Dave Parmenter’s brilliant definition), it is very close to what im thinking of making.

I wonder how rolled to make the bottom ??

Where are you Jim!?

it should be pretty close to flat…especially in the middle…just a little bit of rail-to-rail roll is all you need.

TIME and life in general are my most valuable possesions. Once I give them up I cannot get them back. Explanations, except when under cross-exam by some nasty prosecutor are for the most part a waste of time. I’ve already wasted more time in this reply to you than I should have. McDing