Was trying out a new board yesterday morning in some junk surf on the South Shore (goes really good!). I was feeling pretty bummed about the state of the industry and the uncertainty of the next few months/years. There was one other guy out: Buzzcut, very fit, surfed pretty damn good. Started conversing. He’s been in Iraq for over a year and this was his first session since getting back. He’s been away from his wife and kids, facing death every day, being told what to do and when to do it 24 hours a day. Even in the worst case scenario, I get to see my wife and kids every day, I have the unbelievable personal freedom we enjoy in this country, and no one is shooting at me or trying to blow me up.
Let’s not get too melodramatic here guys. Even if the worst happens, we’ve still got it damn good.