If that old board could talk...

Your life`s various surf craft… are they worth more than just the means to an end?

if I make em for myself I dont sell em since 1978 …the end is never achieved as the process of understanding is the means…the eb and flow of water molecules in space is a truely captivating medium,calming to the aadd dyslexic mentality? perhaps an explanation worthy of this lifes maddness,ah to be happy with a schedule and narrow responsibilities with a pension at the end of the tunnel… carpayments… clean freeway ramp illusions ala edward hoppers magik realism…the count of boards is likely to be over a hundred and each has a name and a quest parameter…ambrose…they are worth more than any one is likely to pay for them…to me ,the ones I make and even repair Im likely to wish to buy back

Looking back, I now wish that I had hung on to some of the first boards I made. But being a teenager, the means to affording the next blank was to sell the board. I would like to think those boards are under someones house or on a wall somewhere. All I have to remind me of them are some photos and memories. Some of the boards I have restored over the years would have some stories for sure. I recently restored a 70’s single fin which was wall to wall dings. The owner wanted it patched up and glossed. Every ding had a story, and he delighted in telling anyone who was willing to listen. I’ve sanded pigment jobs of old boards to find writing all over the blank. Every board I restore, I now document all the dimentions, logos, etc. Take before and after photos. It may not be important now, but in 40 years time it will be to somebody. platty.

to what end do we proceed, mr solomonson?

Dale,

Not sure if I am on topic, but here are a couple of thoughts: Pre-WWII means versus ends discussions were balanced by the ethical principle of our grandparents - every human must produce something. Now days the balance seems to have shifted - self gratification must be constant. There is no time to experiment, build, or repair. The means are sent offshore. If you believe people have an innate urge to make things then balance has been lost. Perhaps surfers being slaves to the “rush” have taken up building their own equipment to regain some balance. This being the case, then perhaps surfers are not as out of touch with the natural world as the media protrays them to be. On the other hand, …perhaps my morning coffee was too strong.

Take care.

Patrick