What would it be? Why? Options? Etc.?
i do dream about that a lot actually.
since i personally would like to try and surf bigger hawaiian waves, it would prolly be over 7 foot, but actually, i have NO idea what i really need, i would leave that to a pro… who has surfed the islands a lot
BUT… i would not want the board to break soon, so i am leaning [if the budget were endless] towards 4 options…
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a brewer hollow balsa surfboard [possibly glass it myself, or ask bammbamm808, or that cmp guy. possibly even resin-X? he-ll make it a 2+1 thing?
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be a pussy face and surf waves up to only 8 hawaiian? and have mike daniel shape me that 7 footer
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Get a Sunova surfboard shipped over.
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Ask griffin to make a surfboard, but such a board would be just a regular surfboard, breaking a lot sooner…
well, if the budget was endless we all know our choices: ALL
so, i really do have a budget, i would go for a coil, and surf smaller waves only, and try and make a cheaper surfboard myself locally… that is faith versus experimenting, nice !
ok, that is just my opinion, wishes and dreams
Wouter
one board?
9.6 fun gun with thruster fin set
I have an 11' x 27" x 4" single fin that would be the one board. I built it to be a tandem board for my granddaughter and me. I first rode it at threes Waikiki and totally dominated in head high plus waves. It turns like a charm. I love pulling off floaters on it. I use it for fishing, paddling the kids across the bay, an SUP for the kids and the kids use it for a diving platform. I even rode it on 10' + faces at Chuns Reef and had a blast.
Of course, I wouldn't ride it at Pipe or big Sunset but I would charge decent size Makaha with it. It's so much fun. The rest of my boards are very specialized for specific breaks.
D
You should probably specify where you stay, how long, what season, what board you normally ride.
8ft McCoy balsa gun.
pair of VIPER fins…size Large
8'0-8'6" Brewer or Chapman Brewer pintail, just a tad wider something around 19 3/4"-20" lots of volume under the chest, tight fin cluster....But then I'm old school on this topic. Catch the wave you paddle for...if you catch it, make it to the bottom.
The board I just took (and left for future trips) to Kauai and Maui is a 7’0" Brewer single-fin round-pin winger. I’ve got the same board here in SF. I’ve also got it in 6’4".
The 7’0" works in anything up to about double-overhead. When it gets much bigger than that, I pull out a gun.
What you choose should be influenced by what you’re currently riding and the kind of waves you are comfortable surfing. I’m guessing Hawaiian waves will be hollower than what you normally get in WA. Also, reef and point breaks will have channels and will have a consistent take-off spot. That makes surfing ANY board easier. Narrower tails are in order so you don’t get hung up and go over the falls. Too thick and you won’t be able to dig a rail. Remember too that you’ll need less float because you won’t be wearing a 4/3 wettie, and catching waves is easier because they’re more predictable.
The bottom line is - on most days anything will work. On serious days ride a serious board. Darrick Doerner calls his 9’6" Brewer gun his “warm blanket”. He says that on days when he can hear Waimea going off from his bed, he doesn’t worry because he has his warm blanket.
Of course if you don’t know what to ride on serious days you should probably watch from the beach instead of paddling out. And… always let the Hawaiians have whatever waves they paddle for, regardless of who has the position. Smile a lot, show respect, and you’ll have a great time.
I lived on the big island for a few years quite a while ago. I know there are big island guys that post here sometimes and they could probably give you better advice but from memory.... Most of the north swell in winter is blocked by Maui so when it is 20ft on the north shore of Oahu you might get 6 to 8 on the west side of the big island. South swells in summer are sporadic but hit south exposed breaks unobstructed. Wind can be an issue.
I love the big island but it's not what most people think of when they think of Hawaiian surf. The breaks are spread out, the access can be difficult, and the swell window is more narrow than some of the other islands. It suited me because I like to get off the beaten track. I'm sure it's gotten more crowded cause that's the way things go. But it used to be if you went to a break that there was a walk involved it was relatively uncrowded. The far north shore of the big island is pretty exposed but access is somewhat difficult and it's often windy up there. The Hilo side gets lots of trade wind swell but it's often on-shore and windy. If you ride a short board your regular short board will work most of the time. There are good long board waves as well. If I had to do it with one board I'd go with a 7'6"- more gunny if you are more into short boards and more eggy if you are more of a cruiser. Hope that helps.
i live in kona on and off thru out the year. i use a 7’4 griffin rocket. the thing is insane!!! it handles small waves good and when there is size, its stable and really fast, if anything it works better in over head waves. i also have a al merrick m13 that works really good too
Ride what you normally ride. If your here in the winter and there is a west swell (the direction that most likely means swell at the west side breaks) ride your normal board or something a few inches bigger (longer period swell more power). If you are on the east side and there is a solid east or north east swell you can pretty much ride your normal board until it is well over head (8-12 faces) because of the shorter period and less power.