Info on shaun tomson board

 

I am talking about his behavior at Rincon and other spots in and near SB. He got banged up pretty bad after dropping in on the wrong guy and not knowing when to keep his mouth shut when confronted about his behavior… This didn’t happen 30 years ago.

Funny how he, like Nat Young, turned around and wrote some lame book after he got his ass handed to him. He is a one man plague in the water. I’m surprised he hasn’t taken up SUPing. His personality seems to fit.

There are former pros here in Hawaii that are just as bad. Current pros too. Too many people in the water, and the old rules of ettiquette disappeared long ago. One reason I like surfing near my home, or better yet living next to the beach where I surf. Wish I still lived next to the beach, but I don’t have to worry about tidal waves or a rise in sea level anymore.

I have to attest to the fact that I’ve known the land personailty and the water personality and they don’t quite mesh up.

Yes, Shaun has made the rationalization that it is ‘every man for himself’ once you hit the water. Some guys do that. Merrick was a reknowned shoulder hopper too. I could have taken out ‘Uncle Al’ more than a few times. I have a friend that ‘got into it’ with Shaun’s blatant behavior… all these espisodes come from surfing Rincon, a world unto itself.

I’ve also known Shaun during my O’neill years and surrounding that period (early to mid 80’s) and he was a consummate gentleman and professional.

Land personality.

Water personality.

Plenty of you have friends that are Dr. Jeckyl and Mr. Hyde… right?

Here’s a spot for guys that don’t like crowds. It’s the closest beach to my house and I took my dog for a walk there yesterday. It was double overhead plus, no shoulder hoppers, no surf stars, no SUP’s… not a soul in sight.

Waves happen every day with no one riding them.







Appreciate your comments Bruce.  Figured if anyone really knew much about the man it would be you considering the Oneill conection.  I’ve taken $#1t and given $#!t in the water and on land. But a shoulder hopper I’m not.  Always amazes me how many of the former and current pro types think shoulder hopping is a priviledge.  Never the less I enjoyed meeting the Gentleman.  Obviously Sammy was never in the water with “Whitey”.