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So now the next step is to lam, with ink-jet on rice paper logos under the glass.
I’m afraid the blue will bleed through the ink-jet logos and ruin the logo color. I did a search and found a post from 2005 recommending making the inkjet print opaque by spraying white krylon on the backside of the ricepaper. Is this the best way to go? Thanks
I have tried all the paint on the back stuff, and never got it to work. I’ve seen them work from guys on here, but I can’t seem to get the hang of it…always some problem. I print mine out on normal printer paper, cut it out exactly on the line, and if its on a super dark board, I will paint the back white before I print. Looks REALLY good. Much better than rice paper that always looks transparent. Kinda hard to get all the bubbles out, so I lay the cut outs under a heavy book for a day or so so it lays out flat with resin. put catalyzed resin under and cloth over. DON’T let the paper bend or it will not lay out without bubbles. good luck
Next time mask off just the area for your logo before you spray the board,. Grant it this only works if its a bordered logo but it makes it look really clean if you have the option of doing that.
Take my backyarder comments & advice for what it’s worth -
Your work looks great - Did you add any acrylic to thin the paint? I wouldn’t be worried about your air spray bleeding through your logos unless you overwork your squeegee, IME you’re more likely to have your inkjet logo bleeding than your air sprayed color on the board bleed through the logo.
I think a lot depends on your logo and its color(s), post up a pic.
Not nearly as dark but I did somewhat similar color and my basic logo is black, stands out pretty well.
Next time I will definitely mask out the logo area prior to spraying.
I did not thin the paint with acrylic. Just filtered tap water. Should I spray a layer of clear acrylic over the paint now, before I lam? If so, what should I get?
Logos are attached. I want to do the one with the different shades of blue. Perhaps I should just play it safe this time and go with the black outline one.
By the way, something else I learned in this spray process: I filled a couple small holes in the finished blank with fast-n-final spackle. It is not nearly as pourous as the PU foam, and when I sprayed, the spackled areas show up as much darker splotches. Is there any way to avoid this?
Yeah the diamonds would have been pretty easy to tape off, then the text you could have just placed on the paint.
I’m really not experienced enough to give this advice but … what’s worked for me, thanks to the good people and their contributions here at swaylocks
thin your paint with a 50/50 mix of water & “future” acrylic floor polish
- light fog/dusting of rattle can clear matte acrylic, especially where you will be pressing your squeegee against the painted foam at the free lap; Not such a huge concern for a full board spray, but for multi colors - when tucking your laps keep an eye on the squeegee for any paint that might have transferred from this area
you learned the problem about worm/buckshot holes in the shaped blank. dark colors especially need a flawless finished surface to come out looking good. any holes/knicks/tears or changes in the texture will be amplified
I hit the paint with two light coats of matte clear acryllic spray just to be safe. No problems with paint.
Went with the black outline clear logo. Tough/impossible to get some of the bubbles out and as described above, the rice paper didn’t really want to disappear with the dark background.
So live and learn, I guess. Next time I’ll definitely mask off the logo area.
