Hi, Does anyone have any experience with installing futures fin boxes? On the website it looks like the box is glassed over, but is the box installed before or after glassing? and how? thanks, Håvard
Hi,>>> Does anyone have any experience with installing futures fin boxes? On the > website it looks like the box is glassed over, but is the box installed > before or after glassing? and how?>>> thanks,>>> Håvard It’s the same installation as O’Fish’l. You route the grooves in the foam blank before glassing and the cant is based upon the bottom contour around the box flange.
My buddy uses them. Yes you route the blank, set your cant & boxes, then put the caps on the boxes and laminate & hot coat right over it. Then you sand every thing flush. I have not used it yet but he tells me that it is a very easy system to use & strong. I don’t know how strong, I’ve seen ofishl boxes (which I believe are installed the same way) that have developed cracks around the box because the box is not really anchored to anything and is suspended in foam. But I do know that he has been using them quite a long time and swears by them. I am going to pick up a board there tomorrow night, if you need more info. I can probably find out for you. But you will probably get all the info you need from someone on the page.
Just put a set of three into a board not to long ago. And yes, they should be installed prior to glassing. Very easy and no special jigs were needed, though I did make a quick paper template, but it is just a tracing of the outline of the flange. After laying out placement of the boxes, I traced around the narrow portion of the fin-box in place on the blank and routed to the according depth (they either come in 3/4 or 1/2 deep sizes). I then made a paper tracing of the outside portion of the box, (the flange that sits just a tad over 1/8" deep in the foam). Cut out the tracing and use the reamining portion for as a guide for centering the flange around the slot that you have already routed. After this is drawn on the blank rout to about 3/16". The boxes are pretty clean in design. If you have to install one in the stringer it is necessary to cut out the ribs on box, otherwise fill the routed portion with enough resin to cover the sides and bottom (be careful not to use to much cause they fit reall snug and a lot could seep up out of the routed slots). remeber to clean the finboxes with aceton (IMPORTANT) and put a thin coat of resin on the boxes and press into place. To glass and hot coat, I cut a piece of white artists tape over the slot and then trim off nearly all of it leaving maybe a few milimeters overlay on the slot (so the tape is just barly covering the opening. After glassing and hot coat you might have to sand or plane off a few millimeters of plastic from the tops of the boxes, don’t worry about this though, the screws go really deep. Hope that this helps.
Drew: Are you using straight router bits? regular fluted type that might be used for putting a Bahne F/U type long box in? diameter? Just wondering about trying some myself in the next tri- or twin- Tom S.>>> Just put a set of three into a board not to long ago. And yes, they should > be installed prior to glassing. Very easy and no special jigs were needed, > though I did make a quick paper template, but it is just a tracing of the > outline of the flange.>>> After laying out placement of the boxes, I traced around the narrow > portion of the fin-box in place on the blank and routed to the according > depth (they either come in 3/4 or 1/2 deep sizes). I then made a paper > tracing of the outside portion of the box, (the flange that sits just a > tad over 1/8" deep in the foam). Cut out the tracing and use the > reamining portion for as a guide for centering the flange around the slot > that you have already routed. After this is drawn on the blank rout to > about 3/16".>>> The boxes are pretty clean in design. If you have to install one in the > stringer it is necessary to cut out the ribs on box, otherwise fill the > routed portion with enough resin to cover the sides and bottom (be careful > not to use to much cause they fit reall snug and a lot could seep up out > of the routed slots). remeber to clean the finboxes with aceton > (IMPORTANT) and put a thin coat of resin on the boxes and press into > place.>>> To glass and hot coat, I cut a piece of white artists tape over the slot > and then trim off nearly all of it leaving maybe a few milimeters overlay > on the slot (so the tape is just barly covering the opening. After > glassing and hot coat you might have to sand or plane off a few > millimeters of plastic from the tops of the boxes, don’t worry about this > though, the screws go really deep.>>> Hope that this helps.
Tom, I used a straight bit, nothing fancy. I forget what diameter, maybe a 1/4.
A couple of my boards have furture fin boxes on the rails. They were glassed by two different people. On one the box material is flush with the surface of the finished glass on the other the glass overlaps the edge of the boxes ever so carefully on both the detail is quite good. Both look fine though I suspect the latter is stronger and must have taken some special attention to the depth the box was set. I have set a few future boxes myself and found that one can very carefully bring the hot coat up to the edge of the boxes with a small brush without taping the boxes and keep it out of the set screw hole by putting a Q-tip in the hole. It fits perfectly. Just take it out when ther resin kicks. Q-tips work quite well for little touchup work when you want to just put a small amount of material in a confined area. Better Surfin’, Rich
A couple of my boards have furture fin boxes on the rails. They were > glassed by two different people. On one the box material is flush with the > surface of the finished glass on the other the glass overlaps the edge of > the boxes ever so carefully on both the detail is quite good. Both look > fine though I suspect the latter is stronger and must have taken some > special attention to the depth the box was set. I have set a few future > boxes myself and found that one can very carefully bring the hot coat up > to the edge of the boxes with a small brush without taping the boxes and > keep it out of the set screw hole by putting a Q-tip in the hole. It fits > perfectly. Just take it out when ther resin kicks. Q-tips work quite well > for little touchup work when you want to just put a small amount of > material in a confined area.>>> Better Surfin’, Rich …put a little wax on that Q-TIP makes it work even better!Herb.
When I glass over boxes I pack them tightly with flour - whole wheat for vegetarians. I usually don’t rout them out and bevel the edges until after sanding the board. Patrick
A couple of my boards have furture fin boxes on the rails. They were > glassed by two different people. On one the box material is flush with the > surface of the finished glass on the other the glass overlaps the edge of > the boxes ever so carefully on both the detail is quite good. Both look > fine though I suspect the latter is stronger and must have taken some > special attention to the depth the box was set. I have set a few future > boxes myself and found that one can very carefully bring the hot coat up > to the edge of the boxes with a small brush without taping the boxes and > keep it out of the set screw hole by putting a Q-tip in the hole. It fits > perfectly. Just take it out when ther resin kicks. Q-tips work quite well > for little touchup work when you want to just put a small amount of > material in a confined area.>>> Better Surfin’, Rich MY BAD, There are two layers of E Glass over boxes I though didn’have any. It’s just done so well you can’t tell. I just talked to “The Man”
Drew:>>> Are you using straight router bits? regular fluted type that might be used > for putting a Bahne F/U type long box in? diameter? Just wondering about > trying some myself in the next tri- or twin->>> Tom S. Future makes their own custom router bits for this system.They also offer a really good jig for putting them in.I think that they also have a new set up for the thinner boxes.I Think that the whole deal cost around me around 200 bucks but am not sure.I will say that it is well worth the money. I got em from Atlantic Surfing Materials and they included a really good instructional video. If you want to make your own jig go ahead. They will sell you the custom router bit seperatly,this is the key tool for routing in these boxes…super close tolerance,perfect fit.Really easy to glass over.
Hey I just installed them on a board. The web site says to cut out a slot for the bottom part of the box and let the lip fit on top of the board. Then what i did is cut the “football patches” and layed them over top and then on top of that i put the layer of 4 oz. cloth or whatever you are using and cut out a little opening for the box to show through. I imagine this is the best way to get strength and a smooth contour for minimal drag. Hope this helps Nick>>> Hi,>>> Does anyone have any experience with installing futures fin boxes? On the > website it looks like the box is glassed over, but is the box installed > before or after glassing? and how?>>> thanks,>>> Håvard
Hey I just installed them on a board. The web site says to cut out a slot > for the bottom part of the box and let the lip fit on top of the board. > Then what i did is cut the “football patches” and layed them > over top and then on top of that i put the layer of 4 oz. cloth or > whatever you are using and cut out a little opening for the box to show > through. I imagine this is the best way to get strength and a smooth > contour for minimal drag. Hope this helps>>> Nick .The custom bit from Future routs a secondary slot for the fin box lip,it actually goes in a hair deeper than the blank surface.You tape the fin slot to keep resin out and glass as normal,you can add a football patch if you want.After hotcoating you sand the slot lip and tape off which opens up the fin slot.If you gloss the board you have to retape the slot.When I sand and polish I leave the tape on until completed,this keeps compound out of the box.Try to get a copy of the instructional video. I really like this system but you have to do it right.
Thanks for all the great info. regards, Håvard