Love to get your guys’ take on this one. I can hold my own in the line up, but on any given day I’m NEVER the best surfer out there, most days not even close. My question is, is it proper for the best surfers to dominate the line up? Should you take every wave you can get, or should you give a few to others? Like I said, I’m basicall a competent surfer and I always give a wave to a grom or a girl who’s not getting their share. Should the better surfers do the same, or is it “the strong survive?” I honestly don’t know how I feel about this. People should be rewarded for putting in the time and having the skill to dominate, but I personally like to give a wave every now and then. How about you?
This one is simple. Among competent surfers in decent waves its always give a wave take a wave. There are too many HOGS in the water. This not about their surfing – it’s about their personalities. Only-child, abused, alcoholic, whatever – people who hog waves are LOWLIFES. I don’t care how good they surf.
Love to get your guys’ take on this one. I can hold my own in the line up, > but on any given day I’m NEVER the best surfer out there, most days not > even close. My question is, is it proper for the best surfers to dominate > the line up? Should you take every wave you can get, or should you give a > few to others? Like I said, I’m basicall a competent surfer and I always > give a wave to a grom or a girl who’s not getting their share. Should the > better surfers do the same, or is it “the strong survive?”>>> I honestly don’t know how I feel about this. People should be rewarded for > putting in the time and having the skill to dominate, but I personally > like to give a wave every now and then. How about you? This should answer your question. It was archived - This subject is begging to differ! I have tried the DOMINATION of putting the one gasoline and the one chainsaw together to test electronic ignition in one tools mall. It did not work. I was arrested. Bonta must complete the one counseling program for successful police relationship with myself and them. It would have been the worse for myself (Bonta) if I had gained the thought to mix gasoline and jetski in the one tools mall. Very bad counseling experience just for the one chainsaws. To DOMINATE in the American surf culture is happening at the one sandy shoreline, not among the tools mall.
Love to get your guys’ take on this one. I can hold my own in the line up, > but on any given day I’m NEVER the best surfer out there, most days not > even close. My question is, is it proper for the best surfers to dominate > the line up? Should you take every wave you can get, or should you give a > few to others? Like I said, I’m basicall a competent surfer and I always > give a wave to a grom or a girl who’s not getting their share. Should the > better surfers do the same, or is it “the strong survive?”>>> I honestly don’t know how I feel about this. People should be rewarded for > putting in the time and having the skill to dominate, but I personally > like to give a wave every now and then. How about you? You
re right... at least in theory, it does seem the best surfers should always get all the best waves (to hell with lesser beings), and one
s domination of any given lineup can be viewed as nothing less than a symbolic display of ones over-abundant ego and virility (just ask Bonta). Darwin
s Theory working itself out through your life. Very cool! But in reality, if such activities are pursued consistently, they will result in a multitude of increasingly negative energies from among the adjoining participants. Energies that often result in verbal and physical altercations upon the beach, the parking lot, the highway, supermarkets, restaurants, public restrooms. Always inconvenient and so embarrassing. Thus, looking back over the years, experience has taught that it is wise to avoid conflict through peaceful resolution. Or simply run away, if you feel the urge… no questions about cowardice, just go with it. And if an altercation is imminent, it is also wise to know with whom youre about to exchange verbal threats or make viloent physical contact with intent to harm... especially if you don
t recognise the individual as an attorney. PC minorities with an bad attitude, well-connected gang members, prominent politicians, little girls with big boyfriends, respected members of the martial arts community, short people with pistols, etc. are absolutely nothing in comparison to lawyers. So, you may think youve won something large on the beach, but you
ll get your butt kicked off four walls and the ceiling in the courtroom. In hindsight, theres no question in my mind, that the ubiquitous "No Fear" stickers were thought up and first created by an attorney. I
m for sharing waves and making friends.
Should you take every wave you can get? I think the key word here is TAKE – the word itself just sounds ugly. In the water, it looks ugly. Shine http://users2.fdn.com/~shine
most wave hogs seem to be sad cases,lonely fellas.Get along and share-I’m always impressed when the best surfer in the water gives a wave.
Love to get your guys’ take on this one. I can hold my own in the line up, > but on any given day I’m NEVER the best surfer out there, most days not > even close. My question is, is it proper for the best surfers to dominate > the line up? Should you take every wave you can get, or should you give a > few to others? Like I said, I’m basicall a competent surfer and I always > give a wave to a grom or a girl who’s not getting their share. Should the > better surfers do the same, or is it “the strong survive?”>>> I honestly don’t know how I feel about this. People should be rewarded for > putting in the time and having the skill to dominate, but I personally > like to give a wave every now and then. How about you? of course there are gonna be those select days where you are constantly in the right place at the right time…but i was once intimated to a good friend and surfer who’s water time is approaching it’s 4th decade. he said, “you know in all my years of surfing, i’ve learned…no one likes a wave hog.”
I honestly don’t know how I feel about this. People should be rewarded for > putting in the time and having the skill to dominate, but I personally > like to give a wave every now and then. How about you? In the best of all possible worlds everyone should take turns, and everybody knows it. Good, open communication would allow for the snagging of someone elses missed opportunity (wave) - amazing how a simple “thank you” to those around you keeps temperatures down. Once time has been put in to increase skill levels, the performance levels should be reward enough. They’ve already had more waves than most to get there. I’m coming to the conclusion that sending all these “pros” and psuedo pros to the Hobgoblin Islands on the other side of the earth is probably a good thing for the rest of us. The real top handful in the world can’t get enough good waves staying at home to progress the sport without ripping off the regulars, creating a self-defeating promotional situation. Plus, it can be a bit demoralizing to get to the beach and see the one peak covered with 2 or 3 truly world class surfers. The yokels - and every beach has some - who paddle out lost in their “I’m Dora and this is my Malibu 1956” fantasies are full of it. So are those who think they are in imminent danger of being on the cover of Surfer magazine unless they miss the next wave (and the next and the next)- if they were, they would have already talked to the photographer on the phone that morning. Nobody is as good as they think they are, which means we’re all about equal in the Big Picture. As for the Best Of All Possible Worlds, I don’t know exactly where that is, but I hear a photographer is already there and setting up a surf camp.
Love to get your guys’ take on this one. I can hold my own in the line up, > but on any given day I’m NEVER the best surfer out there, most days not > even close. My question is, is it proper for the best surfers to dominate > the line up? Should you take every wave you can get, or should you give a > few to others? Like I said, I’m basicall a competent surfer and I always > give a wave to a grom or a girl who’s not getting their share. Should the > better surfers do the same, or is it “the strong survive?”>>> I honestly don’t know how I feel about this. People should be rewarded for > putting in the time and having the skill to dominate, but I personally > like to give a wave every now and then. How about you? Kindly thankings to you, “Que”, This question is the utmost of truth, as it is I myself (Bonta), who have learned the harder way of American courtesy and peacefulness. Both in the tool and sports goods malls and upon the American beaches of the sandy shores, it is the much better to share the waves than receive flat tires, the one missing windshield and the new front tooths. I have experienced personally that there must always be a bigger bookie somewhere who can run faster while wearing flippers upon the shore sands to tackle and beat severely upon the one Bonta (myself) and then my auto. But thanking to goodness my required cultural counseling sessions and the restraining orders of two have been finally ceased after 30 days! They have said, I am a “proudly new Bonta”! So, for Bonta (me), the most important one lesson of the American surf culture is that DOMINATION has finally been thoroughly understood! I myself have now planned for ordering a heavier surfing board of 16 feet! It is then I shall POLITELY (for I have learned The Way of least resisitance) say to those who are of less length and weight… You welcome persons shall go right? Or then may you be dropping in to go left? NO?? As before, you shall be privileged to share my white water straight to the beachy shore!! MY WAVE, BOOKIE!!!
I’m good for 3 hours in the water, one wave every 15 minutes. Any more and my back starts to lock up. No, I don’t ride longboards. I’m pushin 50. If a good wave comes my way and I’ve just had one, I have more fun giving it to someone else, preferably someone who hasn’t had one in awhile or someone that isn’t agressive and really deserves a good one for being so polite. It’s so great to see their face as they paddle back out just BEAMING. aloha, tom
Love to get your guys’ take on this one. I can hold my own in the line up, > but on any given day I’m NEVER the best surfer out there, most days not > even close. My question is, is it proper for the best surfers to dominate > the line up? Should you take every wave you can get, or should you give a > few to others? Like I said, I’m basicall a competent surfer and I always > give a wave to a grom or a girl who’s not getting their share. Should the > better surfers do the same, or is it “the strong survive?”>>> I honestly don’t know how I feel about this. People should be rewarded for > putting in the time and having the skill to dominate, but I personally > like to give a wave every now and then. How about you? I just recently returned to the sport in my 40’s after a 15 year hiatus. Being of only modest skill, I appreciate the good nature and manners of those that I see in the line-up. Especially on the occasion when they yeild to me and I fall on my @$# when they could have had a clean ride. Same courtisy gets extended to my kids.
This should answer your question. It was archived ->>> This subject is begging to differ! I have tried the DOMINATION of putting > the>>> one gasoline and the one chainsaw together to test electronic ignition in > one>>> tools mall. It did not work. I was arrested. Bonta must complete the one>>> counseling program for successful police relationship with myself and > them. It>>> would have been the worse for myself (Bonta) if I had gained the thought > to>>> mix gasoline and jetski in the one tools mall. Very bad counseling > experience>>> just for the one chainsaws. To DOMINATE in the American surf culture is>>> happening at the one sandy shoreline, not among the tools mall. Even the re-runs are fun to read again! Where’s Bonta? No Bookie …
Love to get your guys’ take on this one. I can hold my own in the line up, > but on any given day I’m NEVER the best surfer out there, most days not > even close. My question is, is it proper for the best surfers to dominate > the line up? Should you take every wave you can get, or should you give a > few to others? Like I said, I’m basicall a competent surfer and I always > give a wave to a grom or a girl who’s not getting their share. Should the > better surfers do the same, or is it “the strong survive?”>>> I honestly don’t know how I feel about this. People should be rewarded for > putting in the time and having the skill to dominate, but I personally > like to give a wave every now and then. How about you? I’ve been given crap for being in the right place at the right time and had to grumble at others for paddleing around the backs for the ever famous snake. In days of old, the best surfers, without leashes, dominated the line-up. There was a conciquence for being less than savy or unskilled. It was a long swim to the beach. After 3 or 4 of those it was time for a cigarette on the beach before trying it again. Now it is just take off and bomb, jump off in the middle of the pack, your leash will save you. Better surfers deserve some respect, but not every wave is theirs. I find if I sit behind the peak at Swami’s, I can be assured that no less than 4 people will jap me. In this day of a mobil society, no one is a local and it is likely you’ll never see them again and if you give them any grief, you’ll be hearing from their attorney.
I’m good for 3 hours in the water, one wave every 15 minutes. Any more and > my back starts to lock up. No, I don’t ride longboards. I’m pushin 50. If > a good wave comes my way and I’ve just had one, I have more fun giving it > to someone else, preferably someone who hasn’t had one in awhile or > someone that isn’t agressive and really deserves a good one for being so > polite. It’s so great to see their face as they paddle back out just > BEAMING.>>> aloha, tom Or another nice thing - tell a kid to paddle into the wave with you, which immediately makes it crowded. Then if he catches it, either kick out or take the drop and just let him have the ride. Others think you got hopped and don’t hold it against you, a kid gets something to remember, and almost nobody is wiser. And maybe some years down the road the kid understands… Nels
You
re right... at least in theory, it does seem the best surfers should > always get all the best waves (to hell with lesser beings), and one
s > domination of any given lineup can be viewed as nothing less than a > symbolic display of ones over-abundant ego and virility (just ask Bonta). > Darwin
s Theory working itself out through your life. Very cool!>>> But in reality, if such activities are pursued consistently, they will > result in a multitude of increasingly negative energies from among the > adjoining participants. Energies that often result in verbal and physical > altercations upon the beach, the parking lot, the highway, supermarkets, > restaurants, public restrooms. Always inconvenient and so embarrassing.>>> Thus, looking back over the years, experience has taught that it is wise > to avoid conflict through peaceful resolution. Or simply run away, if you > feel the urge… no questions about cowardice, just go with it. And if an > altercation is imminent, it is also wise to know with whom youre about to > exchange verbal threats or make viloent physical contact with intent to > harm... especially if you don
t recognise the individual as an attorney.>>> PC minorities with an bad attitude, well-connected gang members, prominent > politicians, little girls with big boyfriends, respected members of the > martial arts community, short people with pistols, etc. are absolutely > nothing in comparison to lawyers. So, you may think youve won something > large on the beach, but you
ll get your butt kicked off four walls and the > ceiling in the courtroom.>>> In hindsight, theres no question in my mind, that the ubiquitous "No > Fear" stickers were thought up and first created by an attorney.>>> I
m for sharing waves and making friends. Well said (again)! Dale for sheriff.
you know… the best guys ive seen are CONSTANTLY giving waves to everyone and hooting for them the whole time.
This is a very touchy subject and a lot of people with a lot of different points of view. I’m pushing mid 50’s too, and have been surfing this past summer and winter after 10 years of not seriously caring one way or the other about surfing. The recent sudden interest in getting back to my roots (started surfing in the hollow days, and the 5 summer stories)was the good feeling of sliding down a glassy face, the fresh clean sea air, and the warm sun baking my back. Besides my kids are on there own and I don’t need to clean up the back yard as much. More time to play. Looking back to the days of good clean fun and the hoots and “hee ha”, when someone really got tubed (Chuck always did that), always was in my blood. Now I’m really back and want to energize my body back to the place I belong after all this time. New boards and a special interest in helping my young nephews and nieces find there place in the water world this summer too. So my concern is are they going to be accepted and find out how wonderful surfing is? Are the examples of fellow surfers going to shine through to set the stage for our future? I think so. I had the greatest time this past summer talking to young kids and hearing there stories out in the line up. Sharing waves with them was the best part. And I stuck up for them too when they were being intimidated by an older kid (snaking waves). The best thing we can do is set a good example and being a good role model. If you happen to find an old board cheap, fix it up and give to a kid. Also read Nat Youngs book, Surf Rage, turn the negatives in to positives. Thanks, Phil.
“The best surfers get the best waves.” - Gerry Lopez on wave etiquette – The best human beings take a wave/give a wave and don’t have to prove they are the best surfers - everyone already knows.
This question is the utmost of truth, as it is I myself (Bonta), who have learned the harder way of American courtesy and peacefulness. Both in the tool and sports goods malls and upon the American beaches of the sandy shores, it is the much better to share the waves than receive flat tires, the one missing windshield and the new front tooths. I am a “proudly new Bonta”! DOMINATION has finally been thoroughly understood! Mr. Bonta, It is with great pleasure that I say welcome back to the Swaylocks forum. It is so refreshing to hear your interest in “The Glide” , whether on 12’ log or chainsaw. You help solidify the brotherhood aspect of our common cause. If you please, could you tell Mr. “Teddy” that there are very good books, with illustrations, on sharpening the one planer iron and knives. Japanese woodworking books are the best source I have found. It is easy to say that the honing of steel is a practiced art. Read a book, go watch a craftsman, practice.