heyy
you know, the ones where microns mattered, and where your failure was more…
is there a styrene, epoxy rescue for eps epoxy boards, or maybe a smarter and faster one?
i once tried wax, bee;s was, but that is semi permanent, i want a permanent job.
thanks!
A piece of fiberglass, 5 minute epoxy, and sandpaper. I get sand throughs all the time, too around the tail and it’s hard egde. Mike
Bondo…yes it is a polyester product (polyester has about 50% styrene, which is the bonding that links all the polyester together lest it not work at all…also what makes for the resin smell).
Anyway, you can use Bondo w/o it eating up the foam too terribly much because it is thick and can kick off fast. You can get it with strands or put it in yourself. You can color it with pigment or paint it afterwards. If you need to cloth over it, use an epoxy like aluzine that will allow you to sand rough and patch with UV polyester resin over it.
Otherwise there are some UV epoxy putty repair sticks that kick quick and some remain clear (don’t know how much they resist yellowing…and there are sticks that kick quick that turn white).
That’s the best I can offer.
tolerance.
I have used 4 oz. cloth and UV resin. Without the catalyst it won’t eat the foam and it is a fast fix. If you doubt me do a test on a scrap of foam. Otherwise patch it with 4 oz. and epoxy like you would any ding. I disagrre(respectfully) with Deadshaper. Bondo and the chemical reaction that catalyzed resin can have on styro can be scary. Have repaired many boards from “surf schools” here on Maui that were repaired previosly with Bondo. It can be ugly.
is there a quick fix for light sand throughs?
What is a “light sand through”?
You hit the cloth while power sanding…add some resin…
Went too far and hit foam…add resin and cloth…
spend too much time working with Stingray?..Not a Pro?..After power sanding with 100 grit sand all the curves and odd spots by hand with 100 grit. Add cloth and resin as needed…One more coat of resin over the whole board to seal the deal.
Sand lightly by hand or machine with 320 or what ever makes you happy.
All my complete glass jobs get a gloss or sanded gloss finish. It costs more but surfboard building is not my main source of income…
Stingray
Stingrays got it.
Hitting a bit of weave is no biggy, IMO people dont usually sand enough.
If your doing epoxy do a thin cheater coat, sand it, get it nice and smooth if to expose a bit of weave stop sanding that area but don’t worry - this just shows your sanding enough, then do another coat of thin coat over the top, which will come out smoother than the first, think of it kind of like doing a matt gloss.
All boards should have a third coat of resin or at least a seal coat as exposed fibres can wick water, even my boards that get a sanded finish have this (some would condider extra) coat of resin
If you hit foam at the cheater coat stage, work on you sanding technique, not quick fixes, but if you do add cloth and resin like a ding repair and fair it in so it matches, when you do the next coat these and any exposed weave will disapear.
thanks for all the replies
light sand through = through hotcoat into top of weave
i was hoping for some great cover up material
since i work with epoxy i find it rather hard to make the layer real thin.
regards y-all
wouter
If your doing onother coat of resin they will disapear, otherwise just rub a little resin over the top with your finger, you can do this while your doing the other side, it thats still to go, no need to add glass unless that are deep.
Hot coat adds no strength only wieght, thick hotcoat = heavy board
For thinner resin, heat the resin (without the harnder), Add add F, and a little DNA
For thin cheater coat, use a brush to apply resin around rails and lap line where most the sanding is needed then apply resin to flats with a squeege, bearly covering the weave as it should need much in the way of sanding in those areas.
Once rails and laps sanded, just rough up the flats a little for a better bond and hotcoat as normal.