Anybody know of a fast drying clear that is isocyanate free? Been using Upol #1 Clear from the spray can. But it is not impervious to solvents and does not cure as hard as the 2 part versions. BTW the Upol Clear like in the rattle can is availble in bulk (1 and 5 liters). Would like something that is fast drying, impervious to solvents and no isocyanates. Is it out there?
Dave_D
You could try Future floor polish.
Dave,
System 3 has a water reducible LPU that’s probably exactly what you want. I have a quart of it, but haven’t tried it yet, hopefully soon.
http://www.systemthree.com/p_wr_lpu.asp
JSS
Give us a report when you do try it out John.
I have a place where I can get that stuff. I’ll check out how expensive it is.
I also have a can of water based PU varnish,(Varethane brand… not sure how similar it might be to the System3 stuff) that I will be testing out soon. A few people have mentioned using it on here. I am still not sure if I will spray it or brush it on. I have used it in the past when doing color restoration/reproduction on antique furniture with my dad. We would brush it on cabinets and stuff, and spray it on table tops.
I tried to get the System 3 stuff to work for 2 years. It is great stuff for about 4-6 months of high use in the ocean and then it peels off ugly. It was great as a low tox trainer to learn how to spray clear. Pretty eays to apply with an hvlp just a bit sensitive to contaminates. Had the full run of problems from fisheyes to poor adhesion from dirty air supply, silicon contaminates, and oils from my hands.
The product literature is pretty impressive but even under ideal conditions I found that there was very little cross linking from coat to coat and even to properly prepped System 3 LPU fresh paint.
I have full box of all the colors and the clear that is gathering dust. Had to do way to many repaints from bummed customers.
I know that the iso stuff sucks but you can pretty much spray a greasy mud puddle and it will look good and last forever.
DMP,
I wouldn’t say that the “iso stuff sucks” but that it sure has the potential to make the users lungs quit sucking!
regards,
Dave_D
DMP,
Thanks so much for the info. I guess some things just sound too good to be true… I’ll give it a try on a little paipo board I am repainting this Fall and report back. It has an acrylic topcoat that is not looking so good, and I am grinding the fins off of it anyway.
A question for you, though. When you spray the iso stuff, what do you use for protection, and do you have a dedicated spray room?
JSS
I don’t have a booth or even a room to spray. The Iso paint is very toxic so I spray it outside under a shed roof that has very good ventilation. Because I don’t have a forced air set-up I don’t want to spray in an enclosed space. I do use a filtered air supply and a good hvlp. I’m very small time and will spray maybe twice a month.
I hate to say it but I use the hold your breath and stay upwind technique with a 3m mask with organic vapor cartridges and pre-filters. I’m lucky because my nearest neighbor downwind is 200 yards away. If it wasn’t for that there would be no way I could spray. The stuff has an overwhelming strong chemical smell.
If I had to spray any more than what I do now then I’d spend the money on a remote air source forced air full face mask and make a booth with very good lighting. I’ve found that lighting and the ability to see your passes is critical in getting a good spray job.
For all its toxicity the 2 part Isocyanate paint is phenomenal. Dries very fast, colors are endless, durable, light, and if you go with the one step paint you don’t need to spray the clear. I can spray a high build primer then light sand, followed by an epoxy primer, and 2 coats of paint on both sides of a board in less than 3 hours. I made a simple set-up that lets me flip the board so I can spray both sides at the same time.
I held great hopes for a water based 2pac I tried recently, made by an Aussie resin manufacturer. No cigar…
It gave a great shine, and is a fraction as toxic, but all that sanded weave I wanted to cover started showing up after a couple of days. Milky, like it has absorbed water. $69 a litre and I never used it again!
No cigar…
As much a s I hate the deadly petroleum 2pac, it is hard to go past for a tough finish.
Respectable extraction fan and regulator or no-go…
Speedy
you guys gota get off that stuff frie your brain’’ speedys right water base waist of mony
thers a saying if you can smell it its to late’’
speedy whats happing you left the coast
huie
Were you using the System3 stuff on epoxy or poly?
Also, for anyone else, I thought the Upol1 clear spray was a 2 part, mixed as it comes out of the can. The safety sheets for it seem to suggest it’s safer than the regular mix and spray stuff though. They recommend respirator rather than forced air respirator.
How safe is using a roller or brush to apply the regular 2 pac stuff? Will the fumes still get you?
The #1 in the rattle can is defintely not a 2 part. It has Xylene and MEK in it to mention a few but no isocyanates. For the #1 Clear Upol recommends use of a respirator with proper filter cartridge. For the 2 pacs Upol recommends a forced air ventilation system. I guess in the long run for health sake it is hard to beat glossing with epoxy. BTW go ahead and smile GregL.
Dave_D
…the first mistake is try to do a gloss coat with a clear…
never a sprayed finish gloss coat is hard like a resin one
use the spray finish to do an speed finish
but you need 2 parts automotive, so you ve got isocyanate…
ALL the clears in rattle cans are hobbiest stuff
I used the System 3 system on epoxy. Prepped sanded and wiped with acetone. I went with the whole system, primer, paint, and clear. The primer seemed to be pretty good as the paint would always peel off and the primer wouldn’t.
The other crappy thing about the LPU paint was that the solids dropped out quickly in the can. It was nearly impossible to remix the solids back into solution with a paint stick. I ended up using a hand blender in short bursts to minimize foaming. Aside from that it was recommended to take the paint down to a paint store and have it mixed by a machine.
I wouldn’t roll the 2 part iso stuff. I’m pretty sure that it was designed to be sprayed. You would probably end up having to use twice what you would normally use to spray because it would be stuck in the roller. And yes the fumes are radical. Just opening the can and mixing the paint requires protection.
I was even thinking about making a special spray chamber for the 2 pac. You know something like a sand blasting cabinet. Just big enough for the board with the big gloves and the window type of deal. That way you could isolate the whole operation away from your body.