I`ve never shaped anything, but have been an fond appreciator of design trends for many years. Since Swaylocks looks like part of the inner sanctum of surfboard design, I have a sincere question for the experts: Is it true that EVERYTHING from long to short, one fin to several, thick boards to thin, wide to narrow, flat to rockered, conceave to rolled, hard rails to soft, from rigid to flexible, etc. all seem to work for someone, somewhere? Incredible! What does this say about past, present and future surfboard design?
It is all good… some people expressed interest in Paul Gross’s knee spoons. Here is a web page that shows some design and construction photos. http://www.romanoskykneeboards.com/html/flex_spoons.html
Romos kneeboards rock! His surfing backs up his spoon designs, too! Best ever! I did a search, but nothing in the archives. A shame that Ron hasnt contributed to Swaylocks!
You’re right, everything works, at least to an extent. But remember Wilbur and Orville? That worked too, at least to an extent. Refinements make new designs perform better and make them easier to use. I remember a guy who rode his old board for years, and he surfed well. He said his board didn’t need updating, although it was looking worse for wear. Eventually he had to replace it, so we built him something that took all the features he liked about the old board, and added all the new design tweaks. We had to make it strong as he didn’t want it to ‘fall apart like other modern boards’ He’s now had that board for years and loves it.
What it says to me is that ride what makes you feel good. If riding a 40 yr old waterlogged beater, or a state of the art feather light expoxy, go for it. Ride what you like and have fun, thats what its all about to me. Just try and show some aloha to others. FD
One day at the beach there were some kids riding this huge sit on top inflatable orca. They were having a blast. By Phil Edwards’ standards definitely the best surfers in the water that day!
Here, here, I agree. But I bet those kids get sick of the toy and ask the question, why do guys continue to ride boogie boards? Sure, learn how to catch waves and begin to understand the ocean, but isn’t the natural progression to stand up? We all know it’s so much more fun, and for me that’s what it’s all about.
Greg, That`s an good point… I often work for experienced watermen from around the world, many of whom participate in all disciplines of wave riding via bodysurfing, standing, prone, kneeboarding and sitting, as well as sailing and paddling. The inescapable fact is that the highest levels of fun and function occur across a surprisingly wide spectrum. As just one example from many years ago, the natural progression of one standing surfer moved in the exact opposite direction: to advanced forms of kneeboarding and mat surfing, offering dramatic inspiration to the way we think about riding waves, with advancements in materials and design which most all conventional boards and fins are built upon… forever changing the course of modern surfing.
I was watching Free Ride last night at home and there was this cool interview with MR and Shaun about their boards. Shawn noted how diffrent their boards were and how if they were to trade boards they probably couldn’t ride each others at all. aloha, tom
The paramedics took away a young guy(longboarder) at Malibu this afternoon who got pitched on the inside sandbar. Racked up his shoulder pretty good. A half hour later I got the ride of my life on my belly board(El Paipo Grande)on that same sandbar. The entire 8’8" board and me got barreled twice on the same wave, emerging dry and giddy from the second tube. The waves are breaking in really shallow water and with the flow of the creek and the shifting sand, are unpredictable and dangerous. In this situation I suppose I am at less risk gut gliding than if I were standing. The experience of that one wave would simply not have been possible with a conventional approach.
PM-I’m jealous man!!!
you make me laugh. that double tube stuff happens every other minute to average spongers. toss that stiff log and get down. feel the real deal.
Skipper, I have been inspired and influenced many times surfing with “Spongers” by what they are able to do and the pure fun they have. Just seems like they don’t get in gear the way my belly board does. They are also officially banned at Malibu and semmingly frowned upon by many stand-up surfers at most spots.Perhaps because you are having too much fun!! With El Paipo Grande,I can keep them guessing at all spots, standing up to deal with dropins, staying down as the board was designed for the majority of the time. When I put on a pair of fins, it will first be to learn how to ride my 4th Gear Flyer surfmat. After that I will give the bodyboard a go. I am always in pursuit of what you said in your message to " Feel the real Deal" My guess is there are numerous ways to get that feeling when riding waves.
No offense intended. But prone boards dont have that many gears. Surfboards barely have more. All solid shapes eventually loose control as velocity increases. The redline. Stomp that pedal to the metal and feel the handling begin to fall apart. Then slam it into 4th and try letting go of the steering wheel on a dirt road with holes. Take your pick and pull the trigger. Feet, knees, butt or gut. Cant trust it? Theres just no active suspension to harness all those extra horses? Your trannys fresh out of gears. What a cryin shame. Don`t forget the road to hell is paved with good fun wasted. Wanna smell burning rubber in overdrive? Go find a pair of red hot fins. Let that old trashbag teach you the way. Man, this a crazy world.