Yes Hicksy, as long as it does actually go off eventually! I used to do all five layers in one dramatic session and pile about three times as much weight on, but it’s a bit stessful with all those panels sliding around and your first batch of resin going off while the last one is being poured. Less haste is more pleasant.
It’s taken me around 8 months to build my board, probably another month or so till it’s ready. The main reason for this is that I wanted to build it well, without rushing it, measuring twice, cutting once etc. Just building up my tail block on now and put the required vent hole in. I liken it to building a musical instrument such as a cello.
BTW mate you’re copping a hammering on the other thread, I thought we were united in surfing no matter what your vessel is.
cheers
Hicksy
Hello, here is the 8’1" blank fresh from the laminating jig.
James
Hey James - Looking good! Hope you keep all of us updated.
Looks great James, how are you planning on doing the rails?
Hicksy
Hello Hicksy, I have cut the board out and I will start shaping the rail soon. I have attached a picture showing how it is done. James
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/1001142_Picturesplans%20040#.jpg
Hi James, Love that specialised shaping tool ;-))
I saw the illustration and that’s the same way I’ve done my rails.
How’s the weight of the board? Mines hovering around 9lb so far.
Hicksy
Hello I have not weighed it yet, but I estimate it weighs about 15 to 18 pounds.
James
Hello,
Here I am sanding the rail to get the correct curve in the planshape. It has been raining a lot and I am working outside so progress is slow. The board has a concave through the middle.
James
Starting to look like a board now isn’t it!
What are you planning on building out the rails with. What fin setup are you going to use.
Hicksy
Hello Hicksy,
The rails are already built up because there are rail blocks as shown in the attached diagram. The fin system is the same as the one on the attached picture, except that the front fin on my new board will be a bulb fin with a carbon fibre upstand.
James
OK Now I see what you are doing. Don’t forget to keep us posted, after all it’s your thread.
Hicksy
I was just digging around the archives for info on Cedar and came across this thread.
Interesting reading until it came to a halt just before the rails were shaped 
Any pics of the final board?
-Cam
continuing where I left off a few years ago
this is a photo of it when I had finished shaping it a few years ago, so I am 15 now
this is actually my favorite board at the moment and it is still in near perfect condition
I will have a dig around in the archives to get you some of it fully finished
here are a few more images of the 8’1"
Very nice.
Thanks for the pics.
-Cam
glad to help you, I hope that you found them interesting
do those really heavy boards flex? I am interested in making a traditional weight noserider but having it be flexbile.
I’m going to chip in as James is supoosed to be doing schoolwork:
The weight of the board isn’t the most important factor regarding flex, what detemines the flex on these boards is mainly the thickness to length ratio .
The 8’1" James made which is shown here (he has made two 8’1"s) is nicknamed ‘The raft’ and because it is relatively thick and short it doesn’t flex noticeably, although in common with HWS boards it does have a resonance.
One of the reasons for doing the parallel profile is to increase flex, the way it works is that by having a parallel profile the board can be thinner (in terms of maximum thickness) for any given volume, and thus flex more.
Anyway the bottom line with having more weight is that it doesn’t increase or decrease the amount of flex in the board just by virtue of having more weight. . . . however more weight usually means more structural material and that can mean less flex, depending upon where it is placed. Also, a heavier board requires more volume for any given buoyancy. . . this can mean more flex if the extra volume is obtained via greater length, or less flex if the extra volume is obtained via greater thickness.
With a noserider of traditional weight and shape getting flex is going to be tricky unless the board is made thinner (oops less buoyancy) or longer, my suggestion is 1) That you use balsa preferably with the grain running diagonally on deck and bottom (compsand or HWS) , because balsa flexes a lot due to its softness but doesn’t fatigue, and 2) Possibly try a parallel profile to get the thickness down without losing buoyancy, you will lose your strictly historical shape though, but no reason why it shouldn’t be a good noserider nonetheless.
Got to go I’m rambling