i have checked the board's out in my shaping bay and not a crack from stress so far but then the guys who install them do the installs perfectly, and don't try taking any short-cuts, that's key!
hi Dean, in your first post did it mean shaun normally runs 10 degrees cant ( yellow ,plus 6 built into fin) then changed it to 6 degrees, ( 0 degree disc plus 6 on fin) ,
also would there ever be an advantage at somewhere like jbay or other long points where you would run the wave side fin at a lesser cant and toe than the outside fin?the idea being less resistance for maximum speed but still have the turning ability on the outside fin for cutbacks etc, pete
yes, Sean had 10 degrees of splay but along with his concave he lost 1.5 degrees as the box sits flush with the deck. so for the comp he change his splay from 8.5 degrees to 4.5 degrees...
i personally love using the extra splay, combined with bigger side fins, but for the waves and the conditions on that day Sean felt it was better to have the fins more "upright" , and it showed!
regarding different splay on outside and inside fins... i haven;t tried that personally, but with 4 ways i suppose i could try any number of configurations... i agree. with your suggestion, and this would probably work for someone like Sean who pushes the board hard onto the rail through those top-turn arcs!
the extra splay there would give him the hold through those arcs, with drive and speed.
Yeah, it's one of my NEW TECH Epoxy boards, using XPS foam and UV clear epoxy resin...along with 4 ways...
it has a stringer, so on the surface the boards look like regular PU boards.
6'1 x 18 3/8 x 2 3/16" r-sq
laminated 1 x 4oz top + 1 x 4oz bottom, toe-heel patches...
has hardly any dents so far!
as i said earlier now, he was running 6 + 4 = 10 degrees of splay but along with the concave, the total splay was 8.5 degrees
it's extreme but not totally, if u know what i mean...
it's pretty much the standard on my personal boards, as i am a light-footed surfer, which allows me to get the board rail to rail supa-fast and work up speed quickly as well as allow me to put the board on the rail like a "back-footed" surfer as the extra-splay helps sink the rail as u go through your top-turn arcs...
but then again, what works for me personally and for my other riders maybe different, the key here i think is that each board has it's own "unique" feel, the way the surfers react to that feel is HUGELY dependent on what fins they use and where they are located on the board as well as toe/splay etc...
All the 4 ways has done is allow surfers/shapers to find the sweet-spot faster in every board.
I'm gonna watch the vid, but with the usual scepticism. Remember: the difference between a pro and the rest of us is that the pro surfs better than we do. Even on a friggn DOOOR. That's why they get the big bucks and chicks for free... oh never mind.
I’ve seen the footage of kelly on a door (and some other pro) and it’s really not that impressive. With the right board under my feet I might even be on par with kelly on a door.
I'm gonna watch the vid, but with the usual scepticism. Remember: the difference between a pro and the rest of us is that the pro surfs better than we do. Even on a friggn DOOOR. That's why they get the big bucks and chicks for free... oh never mind.
I'm gonna watch the vid, but with the usual scepticism. Remember: the difference between a pro and the rest of us is that the pro surfs better than we do. Even on a friggn DOOOR. That's why they get the big bucks and chicks for free... oh never mind.
hi Deano, are the blanks the chinese ixps ones , i only make a few boards now and then but i have tried the ixps blanks and i thought although they are hard to shape they were something quite special , really low weight ,good flexural feel ,totally waterproof and high compressive strength, they seemed to have all of the qualities that you would want in a surfboard blank,
i probabally put too much glass on the one i shaped and killed any flex but i could see the total benefit of these blanks, pete