well, lifes emotional rollercoaster just took a dip today…
and from the heading of this post you may have guessed someone close to me passed away today…
and while it may not seem apropriate to be posting such a subject at this forum…
to me it seems to feel right to introduce all of you to the person who made me what i am today, and who always encouraged me to become whatever i wanted and never pushed me to conform to societies norms…
as a chick who surfed my mum wasnt the most conventional person herself…
but im proud of the heritage she gave me ,and how she taught me to respect the ocean and life itself…
she instilled in me from a very early age, a sense of adventure and the meaning of freedom…she always believed the best things in life are free …
she never really pursued posessions or wished to attain valueable things in search of security, her main value whenever we moved house or town ,was proximity to the ocean…
to say she had a heart of gold would be an understatement…she would give her last dollar if she knew someone else needed it more than her…a model of unselfishness and freely gave to all …
she shaped my character and allowed me to pursue my dreams no matter how insignificant they seemed to other people…
what mum would put up with a 12 year old glassing in the house ,or a 14 year old turning the yard and backroom into a dust covered make shift fibreglass shop…and somehow she let me get away with wagging school to finish boards and sneak off surfing…
reasoning that i was pursuing my dreams …
and now all she is ,just exists in my memory…
so just to give her something more ,i thought i would show a peice of who she was to anyone who may read this post …so part of her may exist in the memories of others…
today surfing lost another one of those people who have helped to make the fabric of our community as colourful as it is today…in her own way she made a small contribution to the essence of surfing…
for that i will always be grateful,i couldnt have wished for a better mum…
regards
BERT