Monkstart1, you’ve summed it it beautifully. Something I’ve been working on is to have more gratitude with everything Im involved in. In fact me and my son just finished making a few boards (mines not quite done yet) and my logo is Gratitude Surfboards. Yes stop comparing myself to others, Ive been told that before by many and something I have continued difficulty with but and working at it.
I want to continue surfing as I’ve had great days in the water and we live from minutes from our local break. Thanks for your words of wisdom.
MrMik, Ive done almost what you’ve suggested and today ordered an 8’6 2+1 from a Newcastle shaper Jye Byrnes, Im really looking forward to it. Thanks man.
Sharkcounty, wise words indeed my friend and I appreciate them greatly. I like you have had my epic days surfing with mates and more recently with my son, memories Ill never forget. Yes I’ve really only got one board and as you’ve pointed out one board does not suit all conditions (particular as one gets older). My post followed a shitty day, frustrated and dissapointed with myself reactions that have been with me for many many years. You post and all the others guys’ has allowed me to reassess myself and my surfing pastime. I love surfing and love the ocean and love the people I surf with. Great bunch of understanding supportive people have commented on my post and that in itself is reassuring. Ive got a new board on order a trip to Bali booked and 17 days to hang with my family and get a few waves and a few beers.
I grew up on a shortboard. I honestly have very little interest in riding longboards. Pretty much grew to despise longboarders due to a number of them in my region who use them as a crutch to cover for a lack of skill and to use them to be greedy whores. Never want to be that guy. I have longboards but to me its like going from a Formula 1 car to a Prius. Kind of bummed at the idea of being forced to ride a longboard due to shoulder injuries.
Acqua, as long as you feel bad, I’m happy. Kidding.
As I start to type this, I hope I don’t get all preachy.
I’m 66 weigh about 165 and I ride longboards and shortboards here on the east coast. Longboards when I have to because of the waves that day or short boards every chance I get. My short boards are mostly short and wide. My go to board is 5-11 about 21 ish wide, with a wide tail (critical for catching waves. Critical.)
I love the ocean and everything about surfing; building boards, designing boards, helping others build boards, riding, duck diving watching the wild life, including bikini’s. I will not give this up willingly. My wife, kids, and grandkids think I’m nuts. But they are also secretly jealous.
Here is what works for me. I swim on a masters swim team, I exercise with stretch cords hung from the ceiling, I do relentless pop up drills and I surf with a younger crew that will not let me use my age for an excuse. And I just got a Vasa swim trainer off eBay for a song. Per Dan Mann’s advice, I’m working on a prone paddle board. I just love to be out there on something.
Aloha JP:
I feel your pain. I am 62 years old and tip the scales between 245-257 lbs. My “short board” is 8’ x 24" x 4.25" EPS. My everyday board is 9’8" x 25" x 4.25" EPS. My other boards range from a 9’ semi-gun to a 11" cruisers and everything else in between. If you can’t paddle fast and catch waves, go bigger. Don’t be afraid to go wider and a bit thicker too. Most of all, find a board to have fun with.