Just an observation

General Discussion
1

As most of you know I am highly interested in The higher “tech” stuff. And I am usually right there in Berts/Greg’s camp when it comes to advancing surfboard design/construction. Having said that, I surfed my 70"s Takiyama 7’0" single fin this morning and was struck by the Simple and even archaic ride that it offers. I think the thing that was so beautiful and peacful about it was that it didn’t allow me to move beyond the wave…that is to say, I moved with the wave and no more, where as with some of my “modern” boards I feel as if the wave is merely a launching pad and I only use the wave as opposed to unite with it. Granted I am not dissing the modern board or modern surfing per se’, and it could just be a season in my life where simple is more attractive than exciting…But I can see/imagine how the retro movement is rooted in much more than a lack of vision/opportunity/innovation. Has there ever been a case where “they” got it right the first time and everything is devolving from there? Is just getting a Hot curl into trim more difficult and fulfilling than launching huge airs?

I know, I know, to each his own, right? But just for arguments sake, If surfing keeps “advancing” to the point where we spend as much time in there air as in the wave, is this really an advancement? I, personally, would trade a thousand aerials for one long 150 yard straight line trim…but then maybe it’s just the season I am in. See ya in the water.

2

Ahh. I’ve been realizing some things along similar lines recently. What I’ve come to realize, is that for me, the wave is always the star of the show. For many surfers, they are the focal point. To me, this removes the thing that sets surfing apart from any other sport: the living medium we work. I have skied, but found it boring. Halfpipe sports don’t interest me in the least and I’ve come to realize that for me surfing is a love affair with the living, dynamic ocean, not just another chance to show what I can do. Making sense?

3

With a name like bammbamm you don’t sound like a cruiser. Just an observation.

4

IMHO peer pressure(what i believe is part of what you are saying)is very powerful,and i think it’s only power over someone is the power that they(me)give it.what a free feeling when it is not a factor.just rambl’n,somethin’ i’m working on.

enjoy

5

Some of my favorite sessions have been the ones where I’ve caught the least number of waves. Sometimes its those f big day’s where I’m just amazed I made it out the back, I can sit there in awe at the power and beauty of the ocean, take a suicide drop knowing I’m going to get nailed, just to feel the power, two or three waves in four hours that I’ll remember for the rest of my life. Othertimes those warm summer midweek evenings on a dying swell, the tourists and kooks have packed up and gone home, just me and my brother surfing perfect little one foot barrels over rocky ledge trying not to pull our fins, waiting for the last decent wave of the day, talking shit and just plain chilling.

6

I know where you come from. I rode a long for 5 years and went back short . to 7’0 . ( not saying that is the size to go but I alway rode 7’0. ) and the ride was completely new , I still ride mals but the shorty with the speedy turns and the manoooverabily ( oz public schools) feels great I don’t feel 37 I feel 25 But know I’m 37 I do the cutty , pull the reo. maybe diversity is the key, bugger it my next board will be a fish .

7

Well stated bammbamm. Surfing could be thought of as a metaphor for life itself: a philosophical dance that you choreograph on the fly.

Gene

8

to quote beau young " longboarding(retro shapes in myopinion too) is with the wave, shortboards(modern thruster) are up against the wave"

9

This nickname wasnt of my choosing. It was given to me as an insult many years ago and everyone started using it, so it stuck.

10

vs.

11

“mat=pelican and thruster=horsefly”

(derrick)

12

Oh, and I’m prolly not really a cruiser. I’m just saying that instead of yanking 6 off the tops through every weak section, to cram as much of “me” into every ride, I’d rather fit in one mean straight up in the peak moment of the wave, where it is radical, but still fits, know what I mean? There’s places where a radical turn actually fits in with the wave and is done in harmony with the wave, carving and flowing, but still powerful. As opposed to the “get as many points into the ride” mentality, which produces the impression of a great deal of effort expended to do a bunch of ugly, hurried turns which are usually fairly uninpressive and lack…beauty? If I catch a wave and it doesn’t really do much, I pretty much lose interest. I might switch stance or clown around for my friends, but I’m not likely to try “make something of it”. I might just pump down the line, maybe try for a nice smooth figure8 if anything. If, however, the wave comes together, doubles and jacks up, then I’ll like as not try to bust something huge (no I can’t do aerials, I have no idea how to get my board off the wave, and I’m not sure I care to), or, or course, pull in if she’s up to it.

I guess the type of surfing I like is that which makes you go, “Wow, that was beautiful, insane, I want to do that!” The type of visual that produces a crystallized memory, makes an impression. As opposed to, “Well, he’s doing a lot of stuff, and it’s radical.” But…none of it is aesthetic, grabbing you at the visceral level of a full throttle Tommy Curren turn.

Examples:

Good, Lopez at Pipe

Bad, Liam

Good, Owens at Sunset

Bad, Bradshaw

Good, Mav

Bad, Buran

Good, Slater

Bad, Irons

Good, Bird

Bad, JBG

I think some surfers combine both, successfully, but the intent, or motivation makes their surfing more aesthetic, makes a deeper impression. Slater, Fanning, Taj to a certain extent, Curren, Carroll. In general some surfers get less turns into every wave, but their surfing seems more beautiful, harmonious, effortless, but is, if anything, more radical than than those that are obviously trying very hard.

There’s nothing wrong w/beind radical and skilled, but unless it’s done in partnership with, includes nod of respect to and visible love for the miracle of the surfable wave, it lacks heart. It becomes banal, callow and uninteresting. What you have then is just another noisy, self absorbed little human, thinking he’s somehow different form all the other noisy, self absorbed little humans, going, “Look at me, look at me!” It’s the ocean that makes it special for me. What I’m saying is, I probably could care less about surfing in a wavepool, no matter how perfect the waves were. This probably comes from my growing up here in Hawaii, spending long childhood days investigating the living ocean, catching my lunch and dinner right out of her, and playing in her waves as well.

13
Quote:

“mat=pelican and thruster=horsefly”

(derrick)

BzzzzZZZZzzzzzzZZZZZzzzzzbZZZZZZz…

14

Ride a funboard, get funboard perfomance.

Surf whatever way you want, it’s OK by me.

Older is not necessarily better or worst, just older.

Sounds like you need a month at JBay, Ragland, or Chicama.

15
Quote:

Has there ever been a case where “they” got it right the first time and everything is devolving from there?

I don’t think anybody ever got anything “best it ever can be” right the first time, and very few things devolve…especially technical things. Improvements might vastly simplify something over time, but that’s hardly devolution.

Apparently your question has struck something in me though…I’ve been thinking about it for a couple of days now. I have been fairly critical of the bodyboard as design product in recent years. If you stand an original Morey Boogie kit board, an early production board, and the best current board all together you would see very little grand, obvious, difference. The materials are new, there has been some changes in rail configuration, there are now stringers inside, and probably concaves…but outwardly the basic shape is very similar. Morey even re-issued their Mach 7 classic “retro” design this year. I have to think there is still room for massive, radical improvement, but it beats me what, and I guess that stumps a lot of others in the business as well. While the lack of revolutionary change in bodyboards has bothered me in the past, I’m finally just thinking maybe it’s good enough.

The bodyboard as originally created by Tom Morey is probably the best example of a surfcraft that was near perfect out of the box. You could ride the same board in your home grundge beachbreak, the best pointbreak in the world, or the most fearsome performance waves found…and it will work in them all, get as deep or deeper, and be safer for the rider and others in the water than regular surfboards. The construction is fairly green when thermowelded, they are easy to store and transport and maintain, and fairly inexpensive.

16

Riding waves happens to be one of the more meaningless things a boogie can do. It really is a useful and truly universal block of foam, right from it’s inception. it’s alternative uses are too many to mention.

17

Tom Morey once mused that flexible closed cell polyethylene (original Boogie foam) might be “the flesh of the future”…

Is there magic to be found in satisfying the lowest common denominator?

18

I love trimming on a single fin and watching the wave in motion around me. I get so caught up in the experience that I forget to try any maneuvers. It’s probably - no, definitely - impeded my “progress” as a surfer, but does it really matter?

I don’t think so, either.

andrew

19

Here is what they got right the first time that has not changed in any way exept in the eyes of magazine hounds and surf industry sheep: Float equals more fun and more waves, hulls are more stable than concaves, surfing should be about fun and feeling not about sponsorship and magazine articles desiged to sell the latest, good weight adds speed on the wave face, a proper done glass job is better than a cheap surfboard, variety in fins and shapes adds to surfing does not take away from it, there is no such thing as a funboard, longboard, or shortboard; only a surfboard and surfing style and… style matters.

20

An attractive aspect of surfing is that it is dynamic. No two waves are the same, and no two waves break exactly the same.

Consequently, our sport permits a wide variety of:

surfing equipment designs

surfing styles

surfing techniques

surfing ages

surfing skills and abilities

surfing motivations

surfing sexes

surfing priorites

surfing theory

surfing schools of thought

surfing… etc. etc.

Evaluating our fellow surfer’s styles, motivations for surfing, abilities, and of course, their equipment is a freedom that we, as surfers, have, that allows for logical progression and evolution of the sport.

However, let’s not be overly critical and self-righteous and tell people how to surf, what to surf, and why to surf.