#0002 is going to the glasser today. 10' Phil Edwards template square tail.
This is an idea I had when I saw an 8' Joe Quigg balsa mini pig in The Surfing Heritage Foundation. I think the template is pretty close and I changed the rail to be real hard in the tail. I think I'll add some v in the tail next time and thin it out just a bit more. I kinda like it, hope it works.
Just an update. This is the board I shaped starting with a template off of an old 8’ balsa Joe Quigg mini pig. I call it “The Turtle”.
[img_assist|nid=1064847|title=Turtle|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=37]
Nice work!
Question: I’ve never done a multi stringer…any tips on technique for shaping the nose/tail, seems to me that hard edge would be tricky right there…esp the nose.
Thanks!
It is hard and time consumming. I just get the foam on either side of the stringer where I like it, then go at the stringer with a couple of different mini hand planes. One side looks better than the other. I am struggling with a blank now that has stringers off set even further from the center. Probably not ready to take on such a project, but I got the blanks for cheap and i feel like I’m learning alot.
Thanks for the feedback. Got a couple of LB blanks in the shed that I didn’t get to last year, thought about adding additional stringers by ripping em on my table saw…this could be a disaster! I went back and looked more carefully at the pics you posted. That black glue really does look great!
Good Luck!
Triple stringers are my thing. Love them. Always have. When shaping, you need to tell yourself to stop finish sanding. Know when to say when. Get the foam to where you want and then concentrate on the stringers. I use a very sharp block plane and use short strokes. At times, I have used a Dremel with a small sanding barrel to get close. The more sanding on the foam....the more messing with the stringers at the rails. The sharper the plane blade the easier it is. Just keep your eye to the rail as you work on the wood. The foam will dictate what you have to do to the stringers.
That last board (no color) is pretty cool. Actually all of them are. Those shapes are right in my wheelhouse. A couple of days ago, I "drew" an outline on AKU that is almost exactly the same. I want to use the US 8'2"A to work from.
Working with L.C. is a REAL bonus. Kinda like a graduate course. I've worked on jobs with him long ago when he was doing Sheetrock. Nice guy. no pretense, helluva shaper. Nice going Mc.
tblank, have you ever added stringers as I am proposing to do? If so how did you do it.
Hi Woody, I add stringers most of the time. It is easier and less expensive for me. I'm a carpenter so I have the facilities to do it easily. I use a straight edge to mark the rip line and cut the blank on a band saw. Then, using the foam as a template, and scribe the curves onto the stringer material. I like working with Cedar or Redwood but tend to go with Cedar because I'd like to see them stop cutting Redwood trees. I cut the wood on a bandsaw but a jigsaw is fine. It just has to be close, erring on the thicker dimension. If your stringer stands proud of the foam, simply plane it down. I use lam resin for glue and the stretchy "saran wrap" type plastic roll to clamp up. This stuff is easy to work with and won't damage the blank. Also it wraps fast so there is plenty of time to align everything. I start in the middle (thickest) of the blank and work my way out to the ends aligning and wrapping as I go. You will have some run out of resin but very little. Take care in removeing any before shaping. I block plane the resin squeeze out so I won't tear any foam with it.
ps. If your cut in the foam is wavy, use a looong sanding block to true it up. A three foot block is not too long for a ten foot blank. Use long strokes on this as in "blocking". Good luck and if you need any more answers, I'll try to help if I can.
pps. If you don't have access to a bandsaw, you can cut it with a hand saw and "true up your rip cut with the block.
Awesome Thanks!
Woody, let me know if you run into problems.
Will do!
Thanks!
Woody, let me know if you run into problems.
Nice fat little fishy, what’s the dims on that baby?
It is 21" wide. W.P. is 3" ahead of center. 16 3/4" at the nose and the tail. About 2 3/4" thick. It is almost done. Post more pictures soon.
Sorry, it is 6’.
Nice… I like it!
I’ve had a 10’6" gun blank for awhile now. Spoke with a couple of members here and decided yesterday to cut out an outline. The blank had alot of nose rocker so I cut it down to 9’8". Only able to get 22" width out of it. I think it came out alright. Excited to get going on it some more. Post more pics soon.
