oily kroipenstein batman
I have never seen so many words
to describe the isness of wave dharma.
…ambrose…
‘‘and from the foam arises Kanaka’’
or sumpthin like that from jack london…
jack london the cruise of the snark
chapter VI
A ROYAL SPORT
what a coupla pages!
Phylosophical implicatons withstanding - my thought is the percentage of force used to ride a board on a wave, in terms of what particular “flow” one is tapping into at any given time, would vary greatly depending on where on the wave and how one is riding at that moment, e.g, I’m inclined to think when one working some subtle down the line turns to ride high and fast, a good deal of what the board will primarily be interacting with is the “flow” from the boards speed over/through the water - while when one is standing in the pocket/tube (Like the JOB photo) there would be more of the “flow” differential in the water moving in the wave form. For the most part I find it hard to imagine one without the other for the overall act of riding a wave - domenance at certian points… One of the reasons desing is a balancing act.
The thing that’s got me thinking from the past 6 pages has been the idea of torque on the rail because this seems to have the most impact on rail design. What I have not been able to discern is whether the model provides for more or less torque on fat rails and what it means for boxy rails.
I may have missed the whole point…
Essentially, all models are wrong, but some are useful. (George Box)**
**