My wife cut me loose @5:00pm today,so I jumped in my truck ,and drove to Lowers.I went in @ the San-o surf rider beach lot(Old Man’s).By this time it was about 5:45pm,I threw on my springer, grabbed my S.C.rocketfish,and down the beach I went.To my suprize Churches was empty,and with the rapid in coming tide,the waves bumped up a little to say shoulder-eyeball high on sets.It glassed off nicely and I got lots of long ,fun,hotdoggable rides…and to think that this morning it was probably zoo-ed to the limit…I surfed it till I couldn’t see anymore…even the drive was open both ways!..arived @ home by 9:30pm…hope you got yours.Herb.
2 foot mush here in Jersey. Took out my buddy’s 6’ soft top that his 10 year old daughter rides, and then proceeded to to TORPEDO any and all surfers within a 50 foot radius. But still had FUN. Now it is after Labor day and all the kooks, kids and krazy’s disapear. LOVE the fall.
surfed all weekend here on lake michigan.
got some fun early season NW swell here in santa cruz with about 3,000 of my closest friends. glad summer is over.
got some fun early season NW swell here in santa cruz with about 3,000 of > my closest friends. glad summer is over. We had ankle-knee crap,junk, zilch,nada. Thank God, summers over gimme the winter nor’easters with a 6-5-4m/m wet suit. Keeps the Kook’s away.
Thought I had a wave here on tybee island but it may have been the wake from a shark going north! The jelly fish have been really bad lately.
Hit the Cove at sunrise. Nuthin’ but a good time paddlin’. Got to chit chat with the sea lions. Didn’t care about the wave size – 1 to 3 …INCHES. It was so beautiful and quiet. Managed to coax one more guy to hike down the hill and come paddling.
Florida Sux…peak of hurricane season and not a wave in sight. Too hot to shape, too hot to glass, too hot to sleep…depressing.
yep-got mine!it was “opening day” at my local break.nice,shoulder high peelers with 72 degree water and no crowd!! hope it continues like this and that all of you get some good waves this fall.keep it smooth…
My wife cut me loose @5:00pm today,so I jumped in my truck ,and drove to > Lowers.I went in @ the San-o surf rider beach lot(Old Man’s).By this time > it was about 5:45pm,I threw on my springer, grabbed my S.C.rocketfish,and > down the beach I went.To my suprize Churches was empty,and with the rapid > in coming tide,the waves bumped up a little to say shoulder-eyeball high > on sets.It glassed off nicely and I got lots of long ,fun,hotdoggable > rides…and to think that this morning it was probably zoo-ed to the > limit…I surfed it till I couldn’t see anymore…even the > drive was open both ways!..arived @ home by 9:30pm…hope you > got yours.Herb. I had the same experience here at the wave pool in arizona. The only thing that sucks is the crowds. I’m glad summer is over and the winter will be here when it’s only me and the wave pool operator.
last monday was shoulder to head high perfection at trestles, surfed for almost 3 hours with minimal crowds, best day since winter. since then, waist high 3rd point malibu and today, waist to chest el porto. thank god the kids(and teachers) are back in school.