I’m finishing a longboard with carbon fiber tape on the rails. I am applying a pin line on both sides to hide the edge of the CF using auto lacquer. I put a final hot coat on over the pin line and the epoxy wouldn’t stick to the lacquer and just sort of curdled on top. It is like suface tension puddles only on the lacquer part. Bummer. Obviously expoxy and lacquer don’t mix. The pin lin is still intact, it is just lumpy with epoxy on top.
My options are to sand it off and start again or try to salvage it. I haven’t hotcoated the top of the board yet.
Is there a cover coat I could put over the lacquer that would keep the epoxy from curdling? Is ther another spray-on product instead atuo lacquer I should use? Should I just go with pigmented epoxy pin lines (tougher to do)? Is there any way to salvage my bottom pin line? Maybe put a second (basting) coat on top of the pin line area and hope it covers? Should I wait until the tree cutting service comes by with a chipper and make packing filler with the damn thing? Kidding.
Sound like the laquer contains oil or wax. You could use a waterbased paint for the pinlines, but why not go with epoxy pinlines? It’s not that hard to do.
regards,
Håvard
I get good results with lacquer spray cans from the auto parts store.You need 1A can of the chosen color.2)A can of the clear coat they sell.I do the following:A)Hotcoat and sand the board.Go up to 320 grit by hand where the pinline is to be applied.B)Tape the pin and press tape down good with a tongue blade.C)Mist on the lacquer with several light coats,if you go too wet it may bleed.D)Mist on a couple of clear coats.E.)Scuff lightly with a scotchbrite pad to dull the surface.Finally gloss as normal.Kokua had a trick with a hair dryer that was cool.He may come back on this one.
Greg, On someone else’s advice I used auto laquer to apply color on some boards. It came out beautifully on the boards, but like you, when I put resin over it, (in my case, gloss coat) my frustration level almost made me pop my cork. The resin seemed to be repelled by the paint. The resin moved away from the paint, leaving low spots. The problem turned out to be something on the surface of the laquer, which coincidently was a semi-gloss.
Number one rule: Paint for surfboards should be FLAT. My problem was helped somewhat by sanding the surface of the paint before applying the resin, but there seemed to always be a few spots I missed, with the resulting blemishes, and headache. If the methods stated above work, more power to you. I’ve gone to using water based acrylics exclusively, and haven’t had any problems: so I’m sticking with that for now. I hate headaches. Doug
Thx. I did all ya’ll suggested but scuff with a scotch brite. I’ll try that on the top side. If that doesn’t work, I guess I’ll take a deep breath, sand it all off and go with epoxy pinlines. Cleanlines makes it look so easy.
Incidently, I followed Kokua suggestion of using clear to seal the tape lines and it worked great. No bleeding.
Also, Cleanlines, I can’t remember if I posted a big thankyou, but your work on the Video is great. Lot’s of questions answered for me. Thanks.