I didn’t know it could be done, but thought it possible. I bogged, glassed to deck fill-coat in 4 hours! I remember reading on here where someone would bog with epoxy-cabosil then laminate before it fully kicked. What I did was bog the bottom, laminated it immediately, then when it had kicked enough, flipped it and repeated. Started at 7 and had the deck fill coat on by 11. For people like me without a lot of time for glassing, that’s a good thing to know!
I’ve been having great success with the RR…the fast seems to be working great, even as temperatures are dropping.
I’m tempted to try that accelerator too…especially when it gets down to the 60’s in Dec/Jan.
I have done this. Just have to be careful not to get to crazy with the sqeegee and start pulling the seal up through the laminate. Labels can get milky as well so adding them over the laminate with a 4 oz patch wet on wet on wet over that works. The whole thing goes together very nicely.
Quote:
I have done this. Just have to be careful not to get to crazy with the sqeegee and start pulling the seal up through the laminate. Labels can get milky as well so adding them over the laminate with a 4 oz patch wet on wet on wet over that works. The whole thing goes together very nicely.
Yeah, I put my logos between layers of glass and that worked great. Seems like because the first layer of cloth down started soaking the sealer up, it may have helped reduce resin usage on the layup.
We always had great results but it was limited because of airbrush, labels, etc and as I remember airbrush was really popular when we did this so we went to spackling which was better for color. Cosmetics were great with this as long as no colors are being done although it was milky over the stringers. Logos between the glass worked great for the deck, bottoms were patched over the labels. I don’t remember weights but they for sure weren’t heavier. Always thought this was a good technique … like I said just a bit limited for color.
Hey Surfthis,
What do you mean by “bogging”? Never heard of this before…
Thanks,
~Brian
What about colored lamminations??
Would any of the sealer seep into your color??
Cheers
I’d seal that with spackling and laminate with color.
Quote:
Hey Surfthis,
What do you mean by “bogging”? Never heard of this before…
Thanks,
~Brian
Hey Brian, bogging is filling the holes, in this case with epoxy/q-cell. You know, similar to:
spackling “the creeping evil.” 
Two things to be careful of when doing this: (1) You must get the sealer-coat on extremely smooth or you’ll be tearing thru the cloth sanding out the bumps. (2) Watch the temp of the sealer-coat before laying the cloth, especially with less than 2 lb EPS. The main reason for sealing is to prevent exo-therming layers of epoxy in the blank. I’ve seen both melted rails and wet cloth with huge bubbles from this on unsealed boards. Fast cure epoxies can get very hot, and 135 F is the critical temp for EPS.
This method can work for clear boards, but not with color in my opinion. If the filler material (micro-balloons, cabosil) isn’t fully gelled, it will come up through the weave as you squeegee and play hell with the color.
I’m big on sealing with epoxy + filler, and if you do it correctly it doesn’t add more than a day to the process. Mix the filler at 3:1 ratio, tape off the rails, hard pressure squeegee it into the blank in lengthwise passes, rub in the rails with your hands. Pull the tape, rub in any excess under the rails, let dry. Repeat on the other side. Other than the light reflection, you shouldn’t be able to see the sealer coat. Lightly sand any bumps out with 80/120 just prior to laminating the next day. Besides sealing this way for exo-therm reasons, it also allows you to die grind the laps without protecting the foam on the first side lam.
Quote:
Two things to be careful of when doing this: (1) You must get the sealer-coat on extremely smooth or you’ll be tearing thru the cloth sanding out the bumps. (2) Watch the temp of the sealer-coat before laying the cloth, especially with less than 2 lb EPS. The main reason for sealing is to prevent exo-therming layers of epoxy in the blank. I’ve seen both melted rails and wet cloth with huge bubbles from this on unsealed boards. Fast cure epoxies can get very hot, and 135 F is the critical temp for EPS.
This method can work for clear boards, but not with color in my opinion. If the filler material (micro-balloons, cabosil) isn’t fully gelled, it will come up through the weave as you squeegee and play hell with the color.
I’m big on sealing with epoxy + filler, and if you do it correctly it doesn’t add more than a day to the process. Mix the filler at 3:1 ratio, tape off the rails, hard pressure squeegee it into the blank in lengthwise passes, rub in the rails with your hands. Pull the tape, rub in any excess under the rails, let dry. Repeat on the other side. Other than the light reflection, you shouldn’t be able to see the sealer coat. Lightly sand any bumps out with 80/120 just prior to laminating the next day. Besides sealing this way for exo-therm reasons, it also allows you to die grind the laps without protecting the foam on the first side lam.
You raise some good points. One thing about applying the sealer, I apply it like I would drywall compound. That is, the very least amount possible to fill the voids. I can see how exotherm could be a problem, but with only enough epoxy/qcell to fill the holes, it really wasn’t an issue on my lamination. Since the first layer of cloth started soaking resin, it is definitely not a technique to use with color unless weird results are okay! BTW- I’m not advocating this as the best way to do a glass job, just a working alternative to get a full lamination done in pretty short order.