How do you guys do your non cutlaps so that they dont stand up too much as not to cause air bubles when glassing over them. Especially on the first layer were the edge of the lap is on foam causing a ridge that can not be surformed.
Thanks
Swifty,
I use a little 4 in 1 file to carefully knock them down. I try to do this when the resin has just cured and is a little softer. One problem is ripping the bump off the foam! Not good. Someone posted to brush another hotcoat layer over the lap edge out onto the foam to build it up a little then sand them down. This gives a little safety margin. When lapping over a nice spray it is almost mandatory since touching the foam will ruin your paintjob. I use a bondo spreader to try to flatten the edge down right before the kick. Again can’t do it with a spray. I have pressed some bumps down into the foam to get them to lay flat but it will still leave a slight indention around the bump. Easier to fill indention with resin on top lam than having that bump holding the deck glass up and trying to keep the little void filled. When you pull the excess resin out it sucks air in. Some of the other guys with more experience will have some tips also.
Krokus
Swifty,
Once the lam resin has kicked, you can take the hard edge off with a sanding block, or even a grinding tool (dremel is cheap and works well) if you’re careful. If you use the sanding block, make sure to use white paper, or else bits of sand will lodge themselves in your lam. Don’t worry too much about knocking the edge off completely, it will all get sanded down after the hotcoat. To prevent the bubbles, mix up a small batch of lam resin and ‘paint’ the edge of the lap so that the resin spreads onto the foam, sealing any gaps that will cause air bubbles during the deck lam. Again, don’t worry if it’s too sloppy–it all gets sanded out in the hotcoat.
Good luck!
I just visited my brother at work last week (he works at Global Glassing in O’side, CA) and videotaped him doing his work. I’ll watch the vid and let you know how he does it.
There’s several techniques that come up here every time this is mentioned… I find using all of them to work well.
First and foremost (probably what you don’t want to hear) is your glassing technique. This includes cutting… take your time and make a nice cut.
After I wrap my laps I go back and hit the deck with a thin layer (for dryspots)… by the time I get back to my laps the resin is starting to gel. I use a bondo knife to go over all my rails, checking for bubbles/dry spots, making sure everything is laying flat and smooth out that edge… I’m sure this also pulls a little resin over the edge helping to smooth it down.
Once its fairly well kicked I take a single sided razor (that I’ve bent slightly) and trim any high spots.
Next I go over the edge with a popsicle stick and push it into the foam - very slightly
Next I baste with some lam resin and a small brush.
Then I drink a beer and go do something else…
The next morning I’ll hit it with a small (slightly rounded) sanding block. I Love the Dremel tool… but have learned to leave it in the case, especially for this situation.
If you’re a perfectionist you could go over with one more baste, but it’s probably not neccesary… using this method has changed my lap line considerably. It’s not efficient for the production glasser, considering the overnight thing, but it gives great results for the hobby-est. This leaving overnight so that I could really hit it with the sanding block is what I think changed everything (slowing down and not trying to rush is always a good thing) - This would be a great place for all you advocators of UV cure to jump in… and honestly, if I wasn’t glassing outdoors, I would be using UV for this (and maybe the entire laminate).
One note… I only use 4 oz, 6 is going to increase your problems.
Another way to overcome this problem is to flip the board and lay-up the deck immediately. The first layer of deck fabric layed onto the board pushes and holds the lap, soaking excess resin at the same time.
This can also help reduce or prevent curing distortion, due to all the laminates curing at the same time. The small rack marks left in the bottom laminate are easily fixed with the filler coat.
There are more tricks to it, but the results are worth it. I must admit this is an advanced technique and not for the inexperienced.
Just thought I’d add that UV resin is great for this, as you can cure the bottom without curing under the rails, allowing the board to be flipped, the the deck glassed, and all without any waiting or filing of laps.
I used to use freelap only on the second coat, then I saw some real glassers just freelap the blank, with no problems. They cut all the threads, then tucked the lap tight into the foam, and when cured, needed almost no touch up.
Good glassers, who have time to care for the lap edges, can tuck everything tight.
Howzit LeeDD, 99% of the boards I do are free lapped. First, cut the glass really clean and straight so it will look like a taped cut lap. Pull off the bottom strand of glass which should be about where the wide point of the blank is. Now when you lay up the board sweep the excess resin in the rails on to the foam past the glass. Now you have a band of resin protecting the foam when you take down the lap. Aloha, Kokua
Hey joshmosh do you want to make copies of that video and sell one to me?
It took me 6 boards before I figured out what Kokua said he does! Better late than never i guess-
A little more patience/resin in this part of the process saves plenty in the next few steps, then a bent razor will clean any little bumps before the next lam
Swifty, just reading your original post again, and although that first lap is onto foam, most, if not all, glassers rasp or file the rough edges down, carefully.
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Hey joshmosh do you want to make copies of that video and sell one to me?
I’m not here to sell anything (I firmly believe in the free exchange of info and ideas on the discussion forum) but I can either send you a copy or if you have any vids you don’t want, we can trade.
Give me a few days to edit the footage and make clips and we’ll work something out.
Hey joshmosh i do not have any videos or anything but i would be glad to pay for the shipping and tape costs. Thanks