Just spent the day in the archives. Had an artist friend completely cover a poly foam with Intricate art work in cheap acrylics from walmart and some Liquitex. (purples, blacks reds… the whole spectrum) not really thinking to much about the process, as he’d painted some boards before and…just diving in head first
There may be some sheen in some of the colors(board at his shop), , pure water was used to cut the paint, the drying time between applications of paint was probably rushed so there may be water content under the paint, and there are some thick lines
So, what do i need to do to minimize the chance of crystalization and bleeding, and get good mechanical adherance in the lam. Can i just spray a clear matte acrylic sealer over the whole board after i’ve let it dry for some time. If so how long should i allow the sealant to dry and for that matter the paint to dry?
Kokua mentioned a glasser who would cover reds and blacks with a thinned out coat of lam resin prior to laminating to prevent crystalization. this seems to make sense, creating a layer where the water in the paint would not be pulled thru. I;m concerned that the extra styrene could possibly lead to bleeding ?
would a matte sealer like “patricia Nimocks” from walmart or future work alone. Just cover the entire board in spray sealer?
The extra weight of a thinned out lam coat is fine if it will stop the board from being a visual trainwreck.
Patricia Nimocks matte works really well over acrylics, I've used this on epoxy and poly resin. Spray the whole can on the board and if it's a long board use more. let dry over night
Both boards were painted with Wal Mart acrylics, sealed with Patricia N. Both US Blanks, the red one is done with epoxy and the blue and yellow is done with poly, you can see I lammed the bottom of the blue one with no bleeds and no bleeds on the red one, the white on the red one is just the foam
Thanks, that’s reasuring info. your boards look tight. I actually read about Patricia Nimocks sealant from you in the archives. I wonder if you can spray it over a tape line to keep resin/paint from bleeding under the tape when doing color cuts/ pinlines.
Thinking of doing cut laps and wondering if the resin might bleed under the tape line and pull the paint off as i pull the cut.
Howzit whale,I was the one who was putting the thin layer of rsin over the paint work and I left the tape on til I was through applying the resin ,but since I wanted the resin to be thin I added extra styrene to it and it never ran or bled but I acn't insure the same for anyone else. It will prevent any crystallazation though. Aloha,Kokua
So much love out to you for all the time and energy youve put into sharing your knowledge on this forum! Cant tell you how many posts of yours ive read that have clarified matters for me.
How thin can i make the lam resin. i’d like it thin as the art work covers the entire board…thinking id coat the whole board with the clear matte latex sealant, then brush the lam resin on with a tape line on the rails apex like a hotcoat kickiing it off cool and pull the tape as it gels…flip board and repeat . A thin coat would leave less of a resin lap line to fudge with on the rails. Im hoping for none at all.
Howzit whale,So you want to spray something like clear Krylon on it first than do the thin resin layer? I never use the Krylon on paint work because when I glass the board I can feel it kind of melting from the styrene and it has a different feeling. You want the resin thin enough so it sort of saturates into the paint and foam. You don't want a thick layer of resin on the paint, it should be a very thin layer of resin. Are you using UV resin because it will work a lot better if the resin sets up fast and the styrene doesn't just sit on the paint since that might make the paint bleed. I didn't relize you were going to do a whole board since I have never done that, but have done rails all the way around the board and I only use this technique on red and black paint since those are you olors that will have the most tendency to crystallize. You also have to deal with taping off and pulling the tape with out pulling the paint the tape is on. Mine have always had the tape on unpainted foam and you are going to also have a seam but when you do the second tape off you won't have any problems since the paint will be sealed with resin. When it comes to full painted boards and this includes red I just go for it and glass the board with nothing done to it aan hope it doesn't crystallize and have been lucky and never had it crystallize. It seems to me that about 25% of the time I get crystalation with red or black and black more than any color. All I can say is good luck and hope for no problems because you my friend are headed for uncharted waters and I hope you are a good glasser because that helps for sure. I just reread this whole thread and that latex matte may be the answer,I have never seen it let alone used it but it looks like it works. Aloha,Kokua
Whale, this one is Folk Art acrylics from Wal Mart painted on the foam with a foam roller, then sealed with the matte spray then I brushed a thin layer of epoxy with additive F over the whole board one side at a time with no tape around the rails, if it's put on thin you don't need the tape. When dry flip and repeat. Then I lightly sanded where the pinlines go, layed them down added a spray af matte over the pins. taped off for cutlaps and glassed the bottom, when it kicked I cut the laps and repeated glassing the top with cutlaps on the bottom. Also I've done the same thing with UV poly and regular poly resin.
Howzit tjrm63, Luckally those colors are not the ones that are prone to crystalization so you could have just glassed over them with no problems. The colors to watch out for are Red and Black with Black probably the worst one of all. Aloha,Kokua
You guys rock! Lost in the wild without ya. Peter, the artist is moving kind of slow, but thats ok as the weather here in New Hampshires warming up with the passage of time. Feeling pretty solid about the process now, thanks to you guys. i’m going to use the matte spray followed by a thin layer of resin. Hopefully not taping the rails will work out.
I Want to use epoxy to minimize the amount of future repair work. Which epoxy are you using Tom? RR? Have you added an accelorator to kick quicker on the initial thin layer o resin to minimize any curtaining on a small level when you painted the board with resin? Thats what id like to do but i’m concerned about the Chemistry. Have you thinned the resin? (its cold here)
Also Tom, when you used Poly, have you cut it with styrene to thin it out?
I'm just a mere mortal next to Kokua, but here is my 2 cents. I found Aeromarine 300/21 epoxy the thinnest which is what I used to brush on the thin cheater coat with no tape , heat your resin first and make sure your board is warm so the epoxy will flow thinner and yes you can use accelerator in it since it cures slow. I also used it for the lamination, then RR kwik kick for the hot coat. For poly yes I cut it with styrene to thin it which works great especially in cold temps, try UV poly it's excellent but thicker hence adding styrene.. Make sure you seal your artwork good with the matte when in doubt spray on more, I've been using it for years without a problem. Post some pics when the artwork is done.
Well, started the process and sure wish i had a cord for that digital camera. Sealed the 5’10’’ by 22’’ with about 10 oz of the 12 oz can P.N. matte spray, maybe it wasnt enough. let it sit a day, got some warmer 70 f weather today, wicked humid. Brushed on 6 oz of poly with 3cc styrene and 2cc cat an hour ago, over the bottom and the rails. Some color drag, particularly reds into whites. Still looks good but not what i was shooting for.
the poly 249a seal is taking a long time to kick and is seperated, smooth areas with pinholes, not a pretty sight…? maybe areas of paint that is to dense is not absorbing resin… never done a resin seal before …in overhead light, looks like shiny surface with same size pinholes/divets over the whole board… divets spread open over time, sometimes seems more void over black lines. The board kicked hard over night, flipped it and sealed it with similar results.
It’s 24hrs after applying polyester 249 sealant, tested tape for lap cut. When pulling off, paint sections come off board. What to do? Free lapping bottom lamonto deck, seems to have worked out… thinking of pressure rolling in the lap edges and cut lapping the bottom.
The pigment in the yellow paint you are using is most likely Arylide also commonly known as Aso. It’s ubiquitously used in most house paints and cheap poster paint because of it’s low cost. That stuff will bleed with polyester as well as epoxy when you glass or gloss over it. It’s notorious for discolored free laps. Back in the old days I used Cadmium, but that stuff is really toxic. I’ve found the Bithmuth Yellow that NovaColor makes to work quite well. I’ve been using it now for over 10 years and never had any problems with it.
Both boards were painted with Wal Mart acrylics, sealed with Patricia N. Both US Blanks, the red one is done with epoxy and the blue and yellow is done with poly, you can see I lammed the bottom of the blue one with no bleeds and no bleeds on the red one, the white on the red one is just the foam
Whale, this one is Folk Art acrylics from Wal Mart painted on the foam with a foam roller, then sealed with the matte spray then I brushed a thin layer of epoxy with additive F over the whole board one side at a time with no tape around the rails, if it's put on thin you don't need the tape. When dry flip and repeat. Then I lightly sanded where the pinlines go, layed them down added a spray af matte over the pins. taped off for cutlaps and glassed the bottom, when it kicked I cut the laps and repeated glassing the top with cutlaps on the bottom. Also I've done the same thing with UV poly and regular poly resin.