I’d like to know how to install the leash cup using epoxy resin on eps without melting the foam. I used Resin Research 2000 resin and 2100F hardener to glass the board. Do I need to use a slower curing resin for leash plug install? When using resin thickener, what consistency should I try to get? I don’t know the density of the foam but it seemed pretty hard to mow, so maybe it’s 2#. Thank you.
If your deckplug is on the stringer, then you will have no problems. Otherwise you might want to check
the thread by Johan1 titled RR and fast hardener.
Here is another trick to help get a perfect deck plug install and dump out the heat:
You will need some extra wide masking tape- like 2 inch wide. The bottom line is you will place tape over
the plug and resin then turn it upside-down.
We pre-stick the tape on the deckplug and pour the epoxy very carefully. We come up 1/4 inch short of
the deck. The tape/plug assembly is slowly dropped into the hole as the resin rises. Obviously you will
want the resin to just/almost overflow as the plug reaches full install. If the amount is not right, carefully
lift and adjust. (We have a sheet of paper right next to our work for the purpose of setting the assembly
down or draining excess off).
Stick the tape all around the plug, then flip and wait.
Tip: we align the metal pin thing along the length of the tape so we get some control of the finished look.
i don’t do leash plugs, but when installing fin boxes, i just use straight epoxy. on EPS, slow hardener would be better, but the real key is to get it outta the bucket fast. don’t give it any chance to build up heat. also, a tight fit into the blank is good (no resin pooling up around the sides).
the guys are fiberglass hawaii tell me with eps you need to make a very close fit to the plug you want to put in to pervent melting. Just be accurate and it should be fine, ive never had any problems with it in the past and I’ve always used fast hardner
Thanks everyone for the advice. I was also wondering if I could paint a small amount of epoxy on the inside of the hole in the board to seal it, then use polyester resin to install leash plug? Or would this be a waste of time? Thank you.
An alternative is 3M 5200 fast dry marine sealant. Herb Spitzer recommended.
five minute epoxy (in the syringes from the hardware store) is an easy way to do it.
you will have a weak bond between polyester and epoxy as it will be a mechanical bond only. go for the five minute tube and start by only bonding it halfway, after it gels, inject the rest. Remember that epoxy will bond chemically to fresh gelled epoxy as if it was done in one go.
next time a leash loop?
5200 is what I use for all my boxes(quick set).It’s basically full proof.
I thank Tomatdaum @ DaumTooling for the introduction to the product as well as the idea for using it as a boxing glue.
5 min. epoxy works too.
Fiberglass Hawaii here in Hawaii sells a 3 minute epoxy (at 75F) that is more like 90 seconds here at 85 -90F. It’s 2 - 1 by WEIGHT, not volume, and is absolutely perfect for putting in leash cups, tacking on glass on fins, etc. Add resin to cup, I usually use 8 or 10 grams, then add hardener, dip end of mixing stick in white pigment and mix. Gets hot immediately, and gels really fast. I can only get 2 leash cups in out of each batch. Goes to rubber consistency in about a minute and a half, then stays rubbery for a couple of hours before getting nice and hard. Makes glassin with epoxy easier in so many ways. Ask for it. It rocks.
When doing leash cup installation with fiberglass hawaii 3 min. epoxy, do you also use a couple layers of glass? Or just with epoxy? Layers of glass will
make like a cup in leash cup hole and stick up and get ground off. This was from an old post. Please advise if you’ve changed your method. Also saw your video on epoxy lay up, what kind of glove set up did you use? Just the
way it looked , it seemed a good way to do it. Looks like latex gloves.
thanks.
Great tip, no bubbles
On EPS I am very carefull NOT to use any type of system that requires making holes that are NOT glassed over, I had installed FCS and leash plugs and saw leakage as time went by.
After that I went to glass on loops from scrap fin sheet and Lokboxes or Future, haven’t had any migration of water since then.
Quote:
Also saw your video on epoxy lay up, what kind of glove set up did you use? Just the
way it looked , it seemed a good way to do it. Looks like latex gloves.
Kaikoa,
DO NOT use latex gloves when working with epoxy!!! Some of the chemicals go right through them.
Find yourself some vinyl gloves, or polyproplylene ones (like the food-handler’s type) At least wear
the food-handler’s gloves inside of the latex ones as a “liner”
BTW, the Aluzine epoxy is great for installing hardware…
Good Luck,
George
drill plug hole. prep plug with tape over opening. Put 2 layers of 6 oz cloth in bottom of hole. Fill hole with epoxy 1/2 way with RR fast epoxy. Push covered leash plug into hole. Put wax paper over leash plug, wax paper keep moisture out. Put ziplocked bag of ice over top of hole & wax paper to keep epoxy from therming out and melting EPS, it also adds presure to leash plug so it wont float out. If needed put ziplock bag o ice on bottom of board too.
Have it all preped out so you wont be scrambling for ice & ziplocks. Keep bags on hole for about 30 mins, just walk away and get beer. come back pull bags, and wait to finish kicking, sand to perfection. it’s not that hard, just get it preped right
All the nasty potential exotherming will happen in the first 15-20mins of work time.
George, I like it. Very clever. I’ll be doing that from here on. Thx
(I love it when I get a good tip off of Sways.)