o this board i dont want to put in a plastic leash plug i want to do a traditional loop on the deck. how do you do this? i it as strong? thanks in advance paul
will the board have a fin box?
o this board i dont want to put in a plastic leash plug i want to do a > traditional loop on the deck. how do you do this? i it as strong?>>> thanks in advance paul Here’s what I do: Drill through deck directly above and about 3/8" in from the back end of the fin box with a 1/2" brad-point bit. The bit must be plumb, especially side to side or you’ll not wind up centered in the box. Drill down to the box. Switch to a twist-drill bit sized to fit a large bore soda straw +/- 9/32" center on the mark left by the brad-point bit and drill through the box. Dam the bottom of the hole inside the box with wax or play-dough. Stick the straw through the hole as a form and fill the entire drilled void with resin mixed with milled glass and pigment of your choice. I usually make it match the pinstripe for a classy look. Be sure to ease-off the edges at the deck with a countersink bit or something when your done so it won’t fray your leash string. I’ve never had a failure with this method and I gotta believe that it’s harder to rip a fin box through the deck than a leash-plug. Good luck!
The rear end of the fin box is the thinest, weakest part of the stringer, and it sits in a place with a reasonable amount of stress. I wouldn’t drill a hole through the stringer, especially there. I like glass leash loops to be out of the way. To me that means at the tail block. I made my leash loop a combination of underpass and overpass at the top tail edge. I wallowed out a hollow into that edge at the stringer before glassing. After sanding, I taped off wedge shaped edges forward and aft (board bottom) of the hollow. I gathered about a 3/8" glass rope, tieing it with glass strands, into a bridge over the hollow with one end going forward, and one end wrapping around the tail and under the board. I flared the glass strands and taped them down. Then I laminated the loop into place, and tended it as the resin set.
I waited for this one to hear some of your ideas done them all… Noodle i would disagree with you as far as the box trick… I have done so many like that over the last 30 years never once di i have or see anyone have a tail break at the back of the box… Never repaired one… The thing i don’t like about doing that anymore is because of where the loop comes out it’s like 7+ inches up from the tail. The stress on the leash is way to much… I believe way to many leashes are stress to break because the board is tomb stoning it to break. I mount my small little plugs about 2" from the tail just enough room to get full effect of my rail saver… I even cut my lap in the tail wide at the tail to get 4 layers of cloth around the top of the plug. I’ve even added teardrop patches wher my plugs go. A little over kill but that’s what makes them Custom… I’ve done a few nice little tail loop off the tail. So now the leash comes right off the tail less drag when it gets big… Have any old fins??? cut a leash fin that you shape to fit on the deck to the tip of the tail. sticking up enough to drill a hole thru just above the tip of the tail. Stick it on with a little resin as in a fin… Then lay up rope and cloth as in a fin lay up… now you can drill a little hole just above the tip of the tail… You won’t break as many leashes. You save your leg… the big Plus is you don’t get dragged all the way inside. Over all the poor fools on the inside… Do it on longboards when glossed and polished looks Real Custom…>>> The rear end of the fin box is the thinest, weakest part of the stringer, > and it sits in a place with a reasonable amount of stress. I wouldn’t > drill a hole through the stringer, especially there.>>> I like glass leash loops to be out of the way. To me that means at the > tail block. I made my leash loop a combination of underpass and overpass > at the top tail edge. I wallowed out a hollow into that edge at the > stringer before glassing. After sanding, I taped off wedge shaped edges > forward and aft (board bottom) of the hollow. I gathered about a 3/8" > glass rope, tieing it with glass strands, into a bridge over the hollow > with one end going forward, and one end wrapping around the tail and under > the board. I flared the glass strands and taped them down. Then I > laminated the loop into place, and tended it as the resin set. http://surfnwsc.com
thanks all! i think i will cut a peice of the excess resin from the tint up to get the same colour and do something like paul j has done on the last post. was that layed up like a glass on fin or was it just resined on and hotcoated?? thanks again