I would like to get everyones view on foot placement and how it interacts with other aspects of the board, such as: fin placement, widepoint, foil thickpoint, and rocker apex. This is specifically pertaining to shortboard tri-fins, where you don’t move around alot on your board. I realize that some of these aspects are compromised to create an optimum balance between paddling and riding, but for now, lets not worry about paddle-ability of the board.
By moving the widepoint in front of, or behind the front foot, what is the effect? As you move the widepoint back towards the back foot, the board obviously gets looser, but what do you give up in exchange?
Also, how about rocker apex. If the nose rocker ends further and further back on the board, then you end up with a shorter length of tail rocker. This also seems like it would loosen up the board. But what are the costs here, perhaps increased drag?
If the thickpoint of the foil is moved more forward in front of the front foot, or moved back behind the front foot, what is the effect? If we didn’t need to worry about paddling, would it be a benefit to move the thickpoint more towards the tail?
Finally, how does foot placement in relationship to the fins effect performance. For example, it would seem logical that the most power would result from having your back foot directly over the fins. What is the effect on performance when your back foot lies in front of the fins, or in back of them? And is there any difference in these effects with twin fins and single fins?
I realize that there is a lot going on here, so lets not get into any other variables like vee, concave, rocker height or rail design.
As far as foot positioning goes, there can only be a generalisation, because ocean waves are moving, changing and individual, like the people who ride them, and the boards they ride.
A surfer can dictate the boards direction by overpowering it, or let the board dictate. Each persons approach to this is different. The sensation each individual is looking for has infinite varieties.
If we didn’t have to paddle for waves, I think we would be riding designs very similar to what we have now, that being the modern shortboard, and its modernised historical mutations. A balanced foil in every respect, some bigger for big guys, others smaller, but balanced.
One reason I rode singles, and now in-line, is that the fin is under, and in line with, my feet. It gives me the most direct contact feel with the water, as well as transfering that sensation directly to me. I have ridden, but don’t like, twins and thrusters because of the rail fins. My toes and heels are for fine tuning and don’t like turbulence under them.
Isn’t it a great feeling when you find that perfect foil, and from take-off your feet just magically fall into place, and the board seems to be part of you. For me those boards generally paddle pretty well too.
ok i have enjoyed learning from some of the research salomon have done! they have made something pretty cool available for us all to see on thier website. its http://www.salomonscore.com/ go to australia then score technology then r&d then foot pressure test. wait for the whole movie/display to load. its quite amazing to see the pressures different parts of your feet place on the board. many people bag solomon but i can really see some of the benifits of the technology they are using. ok its all been done before… but its good to see it continue on… lets hope it leads to better things for surfboards and performance as a whole!
they all have trade off’s ,its the usual story …finding the balance .
your question about outline and wide point back…basically your board will fit into the pocket better ,go vertical easier and squarer in the turns …
the trade off is cant draw hard long turns with all your power …and cant drive around long sections as easy …that outline is more suited to smaller sucky powerful waves that continuously push you , allowing top to bottom turns in quick succession…
Finally, how does foot placement in relationship to the fins effect performance. For example, it would seem logical that the most power would result from having your back foot directly over the fins. What is the effect on performance when your back foot lies in front of the fins, or in back of them? And is there any difference in these effects with twin fins and single fins?
Rear foot placement on a thruster is over the rail fins, or slightly more rearward. If your back foot is too far forward, you get less turning power for the power you apply to the board with your foot - you reduce your lever.
Twin fins and singles can stall the fin. As a result, the fin needs to be further rearward relative to the rear foot, to ensure stability. A shortboard single fin is about 4 inches further rearward than a rail fin on a thruster.
One reason I rode singles, and now in-line, is that the fin is under, and in line with, my feet. It gives me the most direct contact feel with the water, as well as transfering that sensation directly to me. I have ridden, but don't like, twins and thrusters because of the rail fins. My toes and heels are for fine tuning and don't like turbulence under them.