Hi everybody, heres a good one, the newer fish (twin) fins skip fry uses have some rake(7.5"base), where as the old Lis fins had none. How does this affect fin location from tips, rail, toe in, cant, and if its a kneeboard or standup(5’8" Traditional Fish)? Thanks.
Hi everybody, heres a good one, the newer fish (twin) fins skip fry uses > have some rake(7.5"base), where as the old Lis fins had none. How > does this affect fin location from tips, rail, toe in, cant, and if its a > kneeboard or standup(5’8" Traditional Fish)? Thanks. Good question! I met a guy at Mantanchen Bay circa 1970-71? His last name was Chung maybe. He was absolutely ripping the points apart on what I found out later was a Lis style Fish. I went home and built one from my recollection and after spending a summer at Sunset Cliffs in San Diego picked up a more refined model (Nuuhiwa Dyno Fish). I rode these boards from 1971-1981 as my preferred board for the small, windswell conditions I grew up in. I must have had 4 or 5 different boards, my homebrew, the Nuuhiwa 5’8", a California Surfboards label 5’10", an Agua 5’10" (Rod in Encinitas)and most recently found in a pawn shop- Select Surf Shop label 5’8", shaped in Sunset Cliffs. I’ve ridden this most recent one for almost 3 years now. Last summer I made mods to the fin placement on this board, a guinea pig I guess for a new 6’1" I had plans to build. I stalled on the new 6’1" Fish and have been riding this Select 5’8" for better part of a year. Got some good input from guys with Fry’s, Herb S. posted a helpful reply, and other odds and ends. I sanded the glass ons off the Select Model, underneath were the original shaper’s marks for fin placement. I used these and placed a series of 3 FCS plugs along this line making some changes in the toe-in and cant of the new fins. The extra plug was to be able to move the stock FCS twin fins up or back (the reduced base of FCS fin was an unknown to me). For the toe-in (instead of parallel to stringer I used a mark about 2 inches off tip of stringer at nose) and I used a 3 degree cant rather than straight up and down. The board still has all the drive out of turns it had with the original fin setup, it holds as well but releases off the top (still a twin though, watch out for that rail flip!) Seems as though the “tracking” traits were reduced. Here’s the disclaimer: “your mileage may vary”. Once again, kudos to Swaylock’s, I rarely bother with any of the other forums. Got so jazzed looking at some of the Fish displayed in the “Boards” posts that stayed up way too late working on that new 6’1" I’ve been thinking of. tom http://www.thirdcoastsurf.com
Good question! I met a guy at Mantanchen Bay circa 1970-71? His last name > was Chung maybe. He was absolutely ripping the points apart on what I > found out later was a Lis style Fish. I went home and built one from my > recollection and after spending a summer at Sunset Cliffs in San Diego > picked up a more refined model (Nuuhiwa Dyno Fish). I rode these boards > from 1971-1981 as my preferred board for the small, windswell conditions I > grew up in. I must have had 4 or 5 different boards, my homebrew, the > Nuuhiwa 5’8", a California Surfboards label 5’10", an Agua > 5’10" (Rod in Encinitas)and most recently found in a pawn shop- > Select Surf Shop label 5’8", shaped in Sunset Cliffs. I’ve ridden > this most recent one for almost 3 years now. Last summer I made mods to > the fin placement on this board, a guinea pig I guess for a new 6’1" > I had plans to build.>>> I stalled on the new 6’1" Fish and have been riding this Select > 5’8" for better part of a year. Got some good input from guys with > Fry’s, Herb S. posted a helpful reply, and other odds and ends. I sanded > the glass ons off the Select Model, underneath were the original shaper’s > marks for fin placement. I used these and placed a series of 3 FCS plugs > along this line making some changes in the toe-in and cant of the new > fins. The extra plug was to be able to move the stock FCS twin fins up or > back (the reduced base of FCS fin was an unknown to me). For the toe-in > (instead of parallel to stringer I used a mark about 2 inches off tip of > stringer at nose) and I used a 3 degree cant rather than straight up and > down. The board still has all the drive out of turns it had with the > original fin setup, it holds as well but releases off the top (still a > twin though, watch out for that rail flip!) Seems as though the > “tracking” traits were reduced. Here’s the disclaimer: > “your mileage may vary”. Once again, kudos to Swaylock’s, I > rarely bother with any of the other forums. Got so jazzed looking at some > of the Fish displayed in the “Boards” posts that stayed up way > too late working on that new 6’1" I’ve been thinking of.>>> tom Sounds Like Mike Black to me.