LOGOS...

has anyone tried using transparency paper??? just a thought. or any other types of paper of any sort. let me know. thanks. Josh

has anyone tried using transparency paper??? just a thought. or any other > types of paper of any sort. let me know. thanks.>>> Josh It needs to be a pourus paper (rice paper) that the resin can penetrate or it will delam.

Model shops sell “silkspan” for covering model airplane wings. I use lightweight silkspan when I can get it, medium weight silkspan when I have to.

I just made a logo and had it printed on transparency paper at kinkos. Just glassed the board the past weekend so I cant say what the long term results will be, but it looks ok now. Just make sure you wet out the back side of the logo with resin completely when laminating. I just poured a small puddle of resin on the blank and worked the logo into it. Seems to work ok, but like I said I’m not sure about long term results yet.

I just made a logo and had it printed on transparency paper at kinkos. > Just glassed the board the past weekend so I cant say what the long term > results will be, but it looks ok now. Just make sure you wet out the back > side of the logo with resin completely when laminating. I just poured a > small puddle of resin on the blank and worked the logo into it. Seems to > work ok, but like I said I’m not sure about long term results yet. You might want to poke holes in the finished logo with a stick pin.This will allow for a better bond.Herb.

has anyone tried using transparency paper??? just a thought. or any other > types of paper of any sort. let me know. thanks.>>> Josh Transparencies work really well for making stencils for painting or airbrushing too. just cut out what you want with a razor blade and the results are great. super thin and flexible. just paint off the edges with thicker paint and it won’t even bleed under. cheers, trev

cool…thanks a lot guys. dont know what im going to do yet, but when i get my board done ill post a pic in the boards section. later

Noodle: This is a good tip. I tracked down the silkspan through a local model shop. They were pushing a “Poly” based product as a better option for model builders, something from a German supplier. I suspect the older product will work better for the laminates. Any thoughts on this? TS PS- have you tuned into Gene Gore’s Cam? Good local reports and up to the minute synopsis. www.goreboards.com- tom>>> Model shops sell “silkspan” for covering model airplane wings. I > use lightweight silkspan when I can get it, medium weight silkspan when I > have to.

Noodle:>>> This is a good tip. I tracked down the silkspan through a local model > shop. They were pushing a “Poly” based product as a better > option for model builders, something from a German supplier. I suspect the > older product will work better for the laminates. Any thoughts on this?>>> TS>>> PS- have you tuned into Gene Gore’s Cam? Good local reports and up to the > minute synopsis. www.goreboards.com- tom I only know of the old standby silkspan. It feels organic, but I don’t know what it’s made of. Wonder what “poly” could mean. There are huge model suppliers on the web. I’ll check it out. Yeah, the Gore cam has much better angles, and clearer more frequent pictures than the Koerner cam. I checked the Gore cam for three days during the hurricaine swell. The cam showed strong crosswinds all over it. Finally the cam showed a wind drop right when I had time to surf. The upper Coast requires this kind of accuracy to score surf. The best waves I’ve ever surfed here only lasted an hour. The Gore jetty cam rules.

Here is silkspan at K&S Hobbies. http://www.ksmetals.com/Accessories/default.asp#silkspan