Lokbox Boxes

General Discussion
1

This is my first post here, but I’ve been reading around for a while now since Steiny told me about this great place. Does anyone know where I can get Lokbox boxes in San Diego? I would prefer to buy them out of some place instead of from a website because I need them for a board this weekend. I can’t scroung up enough money for the whole set up yet, but I already have a router bit and jig for longboard center boxes that I’ve used on a few boards and it worked well. Are these boxes hard to install, because I love the system and would hate to change because of the hassle of installing them.

thanks-chris

2

I got mine at bashams in san clemente (949-361-2203)

They’re really easy to install. PM Lokbox if you need any help he’s a really chill guy.

Rio

3

a good friend of mine installed lok box free hand it turned out fine. so that part of your question i can answser as for the other part yea sorry i am on the east coast.

4 
Howzit cardiffchris, Rainbow Fins carry LokBox fins,boxes,etc. Get in touch since they are in your area, they have it all.Aloha,kokua
5

Bashams is your best bet. You can also get them off the revchem truck, but probably not on the weekend. If you get them and need help with the install, contact rainbow at info@rainbowfins.com (attn: Shawd). I’d help but leaving town in the morning to a place where my phone don’t work…

6

Thanks for the replies, your help is greatly appriciated. I got some boxes from Mitch’s today, but would anyone be kind enough to tell me how you installed them without a router.

thanks-chris

7

You’re going to be using a rotary tool right?

first off, you need to know that there are two depths that you need to cut out.

(i forget the exact measurements but you can measure the lokboxes for that)

1.a shallow oblong depth. (this is so that the boxes sit flush to the board)

2.a deeper ‘box’ depth. (this is the slot that holds the fin)

so, start off with outlining the boxes on your blank (you can put the lokboxes in after the lam, but in this case I put it before glassing)

To outline your boxes, mark your fin placement then turn the lokbox over (like you were installing it upside down) and mark the outline (oblong). Also press on the lokboxes to leave a mark on your blank. This mark will show you where to position the outline for the ‘box’ that will eventually hold the fin. Turn the box over and put the lokbox over the ‘mark’ and trace the outline.

Once you’re done marking off your blank, get the rotary tool out (I use a router bit on it) and get ready to cut!

make sure you wear a mask as the rotary tool spews out dust.

Cut out the shallower depth (oblong) first.

then cut out the ‘box’ depth.

Fill the holes with some resin and drop in the boxes and you’re all set to glass.

Easy peasy…total time of install was less than 30 mins.

Some notes:

make sure that you measure twice and cut once.

make sure that the screws are facing the inside.

If you don’t have a rotary tool, I think you can manage with a box cutter but you’ll just have to be patient. I hope this makes sense to you because I know once you do it its not difficult at all I think my description might make it confusing. Also, if you find out the depth measurements, post it up. Thanks.

Rio



8

Thanks Daklaw!!! The first cut is 3/16ths of an inch deep. This is called the ellipse. The second cut is called the cavity and is another half inch from there. If you cut the ellipse portion well, you can then line up a box upside down perfectly over the ellipse and press it into the foam. This will give you the outline of the cavity so you can see where to cut. Highlight it with a pencil. Go in a half inch from there. Glue box in with straight catalized lam resin, and just leave a thin film of resin painted over the box. Then squeegee off the excess from around the box. Once this gels, cut a football patch for over the boxes at least 1 and 1/2 inch larger than the box all the way around, and trim the part that hangs off the rail. Now pull out your full length piece of cloth for the bottom and your ready to glass!!

9

Thanks for the help, I post pics when I’m done

-chris

10

Great instuctions mate. I have another one of my dumb questions. I’ve seen rotary tools in the hardware stores and pictures of air die grinders and their attachments on the net. The air die grinder looks like it uses the same attachments as the rotary tool. If that is correct, then they are basically the same tool. One is air powered and one is electrically powered. Correct or incorrect?

By the way, what router bit do you use?

Thanks,

Chris

11

Hey Bish,

I wasn’t familiar with air die grinders 'till your post. 'Did some checking online and I think they’re the same thing. Whatever works for you (or whatever you have) should be fine. As far as the router bit, I use a 3/4 inch bit. But any router bit you have would work.

Rio

12

Hey Chris,

I forgot to add that a trick I found was to ‘score’ the ellipse outline with a razor blade before you route it out. this leaves a clean cut and makes sure you don’t go over the lines with your router.

Rio

13

So there’s actually a thin film of resin over the outside of the box also?

14

Hey SA,

yes. to make it nice and smooth. I did it prior to lamination because I had never used Lokbox and was worried about strength. If I had to do it again, I’d do it after lamination and before the hotcoat. Then sand smooth. 'Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Rio

15

Howdy guys and thanks for all your help on this thread. For 4 oz glassed shortboards doing it in the foam saves a step. The install is still very strong. But I recommend doing fishes and boards running big twin fins after the lam and before the hotcoat on the bottom.

16

Hey JJR,

Howzit going? I’ve been meaning to ask but does Lokbox carry any “black” boxes? I think I heard/read about it. 'Haven’t seen 'em though.

Cheers,

Rio

17

Yes, they are available.