Longboard Templates

Archive 1999-2004
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I have searched the archive up and down and haven’t seen much on Longboard Templates. It seems that most template materials come in 8 ft. lengths. If one was to make a hemispherical template, would you suggest cutting the material in half from nose to tail? I’m just starting out and want to focus on Longboards. Also, it seems that the rails are alot softer than on a shortboard, so can I assume they are eaiser to form? Any help or input on Longboard shaping would be appreciated. Thanks Andy

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I have searched the archive up and down and haven’t seen much on Longboard > Templates. It seems that most template materials come in 8 ft. lengths. If > one was to make a hemispherical template, would you suggest cutting the > material in half from nose to tail? I’m just starting out and want to > focus on Longboards. Also, it seems that the rails are alot softer than on > a shortboard, so can I assume they are eaiser to form? Any help or input > on Longboard shaping would be appreciated.>>> Thanks Andy …Andy use the 8’, 1/8" peg board (without the holes)and trace the shape you like from nose to as far as you can go down the board, then do the same thing, starting with the tail and go up on the other side…this way you can alter the length without too much distortion! that’s what I do anyway…cut with a jig saw and smooth with surform then paperand your there…good luck…herb??

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you can use a variety of materials,paper,masonite,door skin,etc. What b.j. offered is a common,simple way to do it,and sometimes the simple ways are the best.Herb.

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Thanks so much Herb- sounds like a plan. I’m in the process of looking for a house (with a big garage!) and plan on giving shaping a go. So I have some time to prepare. I’m reading as much as I can and watching Shaping 101 over and over. I’m also trying to gather tools and templates as well. Do you have any comments on rails and foil for longboards? Thanks in advanced. Andy

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Use the natural foil of the blank if you have not shaped a longboard before. Then ride it, see what features work for you and which do not, and modify your findings to your next shape. It is all about fine tuning to what works best for you. Aloha, Travis

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Use the natural foil of the blank if you have not shaped a longboard > before. Then ride it, see what features work for you and which do not, and > modify your findings to your next shape. It is all about fine tuning to > what works best for you.>>> Aloha, Travis Andrew , here’s a little template tip I learned when I was just a wee little foam scruber. What I like to do is go down to the local longboard shop with a big piece of masonite in my hand and grab the nearest Takayama, Cooper Fish or Tyler. I just tell them I need to trace the outline to see if this thing is gonna fit in my mini van. Works every time Andrew, Shaping your own board is so much fun but there are times in the beggining that you will almost want to cry . A good sense of humor and patience will get you through all those damn rail warbles… good luck !!!

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Andrew , here’s a little template tip I learned when I was just a wee > little foam scruber.>>> What I like to do is go down to the local longboard shop with a big piece > of masonite in my hand and grab the nearest Takayama, Cooper Fish or > Tyler. I just tell them I need to trace the outline to see if this thing > is gonna fit in my mini van. Works every time>>> Andrew, Shaping your own board is so much fun but there are times in the > beggining that you will almost want to cry . A good sense of humor and > patience will get you through all those damn rail warbles… good luck > !!! Andy, Something that has really been useful to me for the initial creation of long, flowing template curves, especially for longer designs, is the “batten” method. Its simple: just run a 2" x 2" x 12 board of dried fir, spruce, cedar, etc. with reasonably straight grain through a good bandsaw or table saw to approximately 1" x 1" x 1/8" (or slightly less thick), and if necessary, sanding it even smoother. You may then work with it by clamps, small nails, weights or tape to a flat section of pre-joined (because its only 8-0"), tempered masonite to bend the dimensions and curves that you are seeking. A similar technique can be done directly to the surface of the surfboard blank prior to shaping, but I dont recommend doing that until much later. The same idea also works very well with long, 1/8" to 1/4" strips of polycarbonate (Lexan), a common lighted sign (face) material. I prefer wood because of its feel and the ability to be adjusted through sanding. Using a batten can also teach a person a great deal about how a wide variety of curves are composed and to recognize and appreciate clean lines... before permanently transferring to a permanent, sheet template. The primary idea is to end up with a firm, yet flexible strip that will bend smoothly between the dimensions that you have identified as the width limits regarding the nose, tail, etc. A finished set of battens are an ancient, yet sophisticated addition to any craftsmans workshop. Have fun!

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Andy,>>> Something that has really been useful to me for the initial creation of > long, flowing template curves, especially for longer designs, is the > “batten” method.>>> Its simple: just run a 2" x 2" x 12 board of dried fir, > spruce, cedar, etc. with reasonably straight grain through a good bandsaw > or table saw to approximately 1" x 1" x 1/8" (or slightly > less thick), and if necessary, sanding it even smoother. You may then work > with it by clamps, small nails, weights or tape to a flat section of > pre-joined (because its only 8-0"), tempered masonite to bend the > dimensions and curves that you are seeking.>>> A similar technique can be done directly to the surface of the surfboard > blank prior to shaping, but I dont recommend doing that until much later. > The same idea also works very well with long, 1/8" to 1/4" > strips of polycarbonate (Lexan), a common lighted sign (face) material. I > prefer wood because of its feel and the ability to be adjusted through > sanding. Using a batten can also teach a person a great deal about how a > wide variety of curves are composed and to recognize and appreciate clean > lines... before permanently transferring to a permanent, sheet template.>>> The primary idea is to end up with a firm, yet flexible strip that will > bend smoothly between the dimensions that you have identified as the width > limits regarding the nose, tail, etc. A finished set of battens are an > ancient, yet sophisticated addition to any craftsmans workshop.>>> Have fun! i use a sail batton i picked up from a local sailmaking shop. it’s very flexible but holds really smooth curves. its about 12’long. i find that any batton material is stiffer near the ends, so the extra length allows you to use the middle section. cost i think maybe 10$.

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i use a sail batton i picked up from a local sailmaking shop. it’s very > flexible but holds really smooth curves. its about 12’long. i find that > any batton material is stiffer near the ends, so the extra length allows > you to use the middle section. cost i think maybe 10$. Thanks so much for the tip! I`m guessing that the sail batten you described is composed of unidirectional fiberglass… or? $10.00 is a totally cheap price!

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Thanks so much for the tip! I`m guessing that the sail batten you > described is composed of unidirectional fiberglass… or? $10.00 is a > totally cheap price! yeah its a unidirect. rod. the lady at the sail shop was totally curious about how i was using it.they had a bin of different diameter ones with diff cross sections/ flex etc. i just picked one that seemed about right. i usually plot my measurements on masonite first then use other templates to come up with the right curve, nose of this one , tail of that one etc., then use the batton to smooth things out. its not very scientific but works pretty well for me.