Longboard, veneer question

Well, I’ve been reading swaylocks for a while, and I’ve been shaping basic surfboards since I was 14 (17 now) basic surfboards being clark foams and I glassed them myself. I recently got into Vacuum bagging kiteboards, made a few and I’m happy with them. But now I’m interested in making a longboard surfboard using veneer.

I already have the materials picked out and I read up a LOT on veneer, and I would like to know if veneer and it’s glue will stick to EPS foam? This is my only problem right now, I don’t believe it will so this could be stopping me from doing that.

I do plan on selling this board, like a lot of my others have already done, and I need to make sure it works out right.

I’m in no rush, since I plan on just putting together the EPS and it’s stringer in about 2-3 weeks, but by then I want to have made my decision. My choices are either, make an EPS white maybe painted 8’ longboard, and just sell it for some quick pocket change. Or Make the veneer board and sell it for a little more (a lot more for a 17 year old) and hopefully it’ll earn me some recognition for shaping, since my older boards didn’t earn me any recognition in the surfshops, only around friends.

Any pointers or suggestions?

Seems the glue needs only to be as strong as the 1lbs. EPS it is bonded to.

Gorilla glue works, as does contact cement (not sure, I sold that board, never heard back), epoxy works for sure, but best with a thin 2oz intermediary layer.

Glue sticks to the wood lam pretty well, then needs glass over the whole shebang, with some extra tying the rails together.

Finbox reinforcement with wood exactly the sandwich thickness…or footstrap inserts mounts for kiteboards. I actually used delrin blocks bought from Chinnook Products.

I’d practice a few with kiteboards laminates using 1/8" Luan or other cheap wood with styro core before making a log, which needs vacuum bagging to form the curved rails.

Well, here’s the plan so far, I’m going to get the EPS and make my blank, shape it, etc. I was going to apply the glue and veneer according to how it says to be done then vacuum bag it. On the top I was going to have 4 layers of glass, three 5.6oz and one 3.7oz (Suggestions here?) On the bottom there will be 3 layers one 3.7oz and two 5.6oz (once again, suggestions?)

This is the first EPS board I’ve made so will I need more glass? I’ve used EPS but it was in a few sandwhich cored kiteboards.

I’m going to use Future fin’s for the fin box (most likely) or I’m using glass ons. You say I’ll need wood? Do you think I could just get some starboard (basicly nylon board) or use Graphite?

So right now I’m looking on suggestions as of how to put the fin box in, and how many layers of glass per side, that’s all IF what I said above about putting veneer on is correct.

Almost forgot, I plan on either using the Iron on Glue, or the something bond glue from www.veneersupplies.com


how thick is the wood you are planning on using, or is it just paper veneer? If it is wood that is an awful lot of glass. General rule of thumb for #1 EPS is 3 layers of 6oz on deck and 2 layers of 6oz on bottom. If you use wood sandwich 2oz under the wood and then 2 or 4oz over the wood. If the wood is really thin then use a heavier glass schedule.

I’d say make the woody, ride-it and then sell it. Don’t try to collect $$$ on your first attempt. Sell it used for $ instead after you have gotten some enjoyment out of it.

i would not mess with the glue… use epoxy… do the 2oz under glass over method that others have suggested…

read through the threads that concern vac bagging, eps / balsa, bert etc… there is sooo much info your head will be spinning…

check out this thread, basically the same thing your trying to do?


good luck and have fun

It’s going to be paper Veneer.

It’s not my first attempt making a board, just using veneer, and so far what I’ve been told, the veneer is a pain to use, but I’m willing to dedicate LOTS of time and not rush this.

Even with the paper veneer I should use more glass then what I already have?

Already have a vacuum bagging setup, I actually have a kiteboard in it right now… but I do need a bigger bag and need to make a new rocker table.


I plan on using Ash Burl and Birds Eye Maple, and I’m guessing now I’ll be using epoxy since someone said it was easier, and it probably is considering all my past experience with epoxy.

Almost forgot to mention considering the “ride it for a while then sell it” I really would, if it were possible. It’s kinda hard living on the West Coast of Florida, since there are no waves, but hurricane season is coming up. Unfortunantly, I don’t surf anymore… I kiteboard, I’m more of an adrenaline junky then a chill person out on the water. I’m sorry, surfing is just no longer my cup of tea :frowning:

I read that other topic and I really like the looks of those boards, I’ve always wanted to do something like that since I first started shaping. I guess the first board will be just a practice board. I was only going to sell it if it came out up to my standards of looks.

I’m guessing the rails will be the hardest to veneer, but my thoughts were that the vacuum would just press that down, am I wrong?

don’t do it. Or at least use that paper backed veneer stuff…

the pre-glued paper backed veneer made to iron on to other “wood” surfaces not foam. You should go ask www.joewoodworker.com some questions…

Anyway I did the paper backed veneer glued to balsa that was epoxied to foam and just spent the last month having to carefully scrape and sand off all of the expensive walnut, cherry, and zebrawood veneers off my balsa lam board as the veneer began to peel in bubbles off it’s paper backing. Secondly is pretty difficult to sand it as your only wood layer over the foam and is not going to be as ding resistant as 1/16 or 1/8 balsa. …

If you do wood and don’t do with the thicker balsa, bass, pawlonia, bendable ply strips… then do the glass wood glass sandwich technique 1lb EPS plus 6oz under veneer plus double 6oz over should be “drop” proof. Don’t just go with the “squeeze” test it’s not a good indcator. If you do the paper thin veneer do the peel ply technique to avoid any heavy sanding after bond to the foam.

Best of luck…

Thanks that helped a lot.

So I should get the blank, one layer of 6oz glass, then apply the veneer with Epoxy? Or the glue?

Then two more layers of glass, Should I hotcoat the first layer of glass or just veneer over it and then everything else is like a regular board?

You should look this up yourself but here’s your freebee for the day:

  1. using a brushing you carefully wet out the glass to the veneer (taped if in strips) first using the same amount of epoxy you would use to epoxy the veneer to the foam directly. (need a wetout table/flat surface)

  2. Then move this onto your foam and vacuum this on to the bottom of your board.

  3. Clean up the edges to receive the top.

  4. Repeat and vacuum on the top layer the same way with the glass underneath wrapping the veneer over the rail and bottom edge.

  5. Very carefully sand down the edge overlap and the veneer skins top and bottom to receive your final layers of glass.

  6. You can now hand glass the two layers of 6oz on the bottom and the the top with a free lap or you can do this under vacuum using perforated peel ply and a breather to absorb the excess resin.

  7. if you hand glass you’ll need to do a filler or hot coat and sand smooth if you vacuum glass you may not need to do a filler if the glass to resin ratio has been done perfectly.

  8. cut out and/or put in your fins and leash plugs/loops

  9. seal then with a several passes of spray sealer like LP-acrylic sealer or gloss coat it which will make it heavier and not stronger.

Just a warning 1/64 paper thin veneer is not adding strength it’s just cosmetics.

For strength I’d go 1/16-1/8 and something more pliable like balsa.

But I understand…

I’m doing the same thing too for the looks only on top of my balsa layer or on top of an older previously glassed board…

Best of luck… and welcome to the club