Underneath the hobie letters on base it says "“surf team” and is labelled number 06736 with the same pen on the pinline at the tail in black pen. It also has “hobie power” underneath the top logo in that pen.
I haven’t stripped everything yet, and will have to build out the nose and tail and fix a bunch of stuff, but pretty stoked on this one.
I got around to taking some photos. The board was stripped by the previous owner, and he started to take of f the pinlines and the logo (I’m glad he didn’t get too far). I haven’t started anything and probably won’t for a few months. The foam is really bright, so I think this will be a nice restore.
In the photos you will see the “surf team” and the serial number on the tail.
one reason for painting a board like this was for the simple reason that it was HOT–as in stolen…so it could be sold or traded or ridden by the perps. here on the east coast it was almost a neon sign saying “Hot Board”
that does look like a neat one from the past–whatever the past was
Thanks for the reply. The fin was not with the board, but I thought the fin box was horrible before I picked it up, and it’s actually in good shape. I really don’t need to put a new box in. I’ll have to find something to fit-any ideas?
Started working on it this weekend. The board has four thick coats of paint on it? WTF? I tried hitting it with paint thinner, but it went all the way through to the glass on a test spot.
The bottom is in bad hape and it looks like I may have to strip, fix dings, paint red and re-glass. I love the bottom hobie, but the foam is shot and discolor all over the place. I’m riding this thing, not wall hanging.
If you’re equipped with a decent sander and a couple of pads, I’d go the sanding route to remove the paint.
I’ve done quite a few restorations on boards that have been painted and/or gel-coated at various times in their lives. Having tried various strippers and paint ‘softeners’, I’ve had much better luck simply sanding down to the original hotcoat, fixing the dings, and then going from there.
If the board is really beat or really ugly after the repair jobs (and if it warrents it, and I’m not destroying something of emminent historical value), I’ll do one of two things: either a tinted gel coat/hotcoat lightly wetsanded and then glossed, or I’ll actually re-glass the board using 2oz cloth and tint it out. I used the latter recently on a seventies Freedom from the Jersey Isles, just tinting the botom and rails which were too beat and had suffered too many poorly done repairs, thus benefitting from both the cover-up and the consolidation. I went with a slightly darker opaque blue than the original and a very slight swirl effect, which hid everything nicely. The deck was in relatively good shape, so that was left clear. Leash-loop, hotcoat, resin pinline, sand, gloss and polish. The owner has a rider that looks good and more importantly, has regained its structural integrity.
Hope that helps a bit. I’ve found that jobs done that way tend to last much longer and stay looking nicer than a paint and gloss. Lots of great stuff in the archives about adhesion, weight, etc. on restorations, but it’s one way to go about it.
Ha ha, you caught that, did you? Actually, the Freedom was in some ways a final test run for the Greek. Got the (I hope) right balance of color to cover the damange with the two-once cloth without getting a ‘plastic’ look from over-tinting. You’ve been more than patient with this board!
I’ve been taking pictures as I go along, you’ll get them all when the board is done. We’ll definitely arrange for a posting of it, she’s a beauty of a board.
Thanks for the info Jeffrey - I do have a sander and will try going down that route. One problem I foresee is blowig through the pinlines on the top deck. The kid that I bought this off of started to strip and sand it and killed the pinlines in some spots on the top. I guess I can glass with a red tint instead of painting.
How about the sandpaper - did you have to switch out alot because of the paint? This thing is caked on there - especially the rails which I have started on yet.
You do risk going through a bit of paper with this approch! I usually start with an older hard pad and 60 grit on the flats, medium pad for the curves with just a touch of pressure, and being very attentive with the rough stuff. Then its a medium pad with 80 for both, followed by a softer pad with 120 and up. If you start right away with the higher grades, it’ll gum-up too quickly.
After the initial bout with the sander, you may find that you’re more comfortable sanding most of the rails and/or pinline by hand to avoid burn-throughs, though it sounds like you’ll have to redo the pinline anyway. Take your time and it’ll go just fine. I’ve been really surprised by just how effective a good block with 120 paper is at removal, and it gives you great control if you’re not in a rush.
My old Spoon had three coats of paint and two coats of gel-coat…prior to it’s restore; you’ll get there, it’s a great project.