So a while back I got the great idea to invest in what makes me happy.
i hunted and hunted, and rustled up a classic velzy 10 foot. The guy literally pulled it out of the rafters in his garage. He had a hoard… 8 Skip frye boards mint, 5 classic velzy sweethearts.
he grudged me when I drove away. Wad of cash no small solace I am certain. I know he was hurting for funds. A generous offer, and he let her go.
I never could get on the nose of that thing. ( I suck).
i did hand it off in the lineup to an angel who rode the piss out of it. Damn she was hot.
Another day a nasty run in resulted in harsh fin ding on the rail. Blessings came through my elder hawaiian friend who just happens to shape and repair…
then the darkness came.
i began to blame the board for my lack of skill, or heart.
First goon that saw the ad high tailed it to my place, and offered more than I asked.
now I am doomed to ride a pop out that could match a stand up paddle board for advantage due to size.
I like to pretend I give away set waves to the crew on the inside. I like to think I am the protector of the week, and run off wave hogs by frustrating them. I like to fantasize everyone watches ME and hoots and hollers when I catch a wave and burn another beginner at my home break.
i am all that is evil in surfing.
i don’t even have the guts to move 3 miles down to another break to expand.
how do I light the candle of Aloha, how do begin respecting others in the water? How do I respect a master shaper, and hoard his board from the grubby hands that would take it?