Looking for wisdom and guidance.

So a while back I got the great idea to invest in what makes me happy. 

i hunted and hunted, and rustled up a classic velzy 10 foot. The guy literally pulled it out of the rafters in his garage. He had a hoard… 8 Skip frye boards mint, 5 classic velzy sweethearts.

he grudged me when I drove away. Wad of cash no small solace I am certain. I know he was hurting for funds. A generous offer, and he let her go.

I never could get on the nose of that thing. ( I suck). 

i did hand it off in the lineup to an angel who rode the piss out of it. Damn she was hot.

Another day a nasty run in resulted in harsh fin ding on the rail. Blessings came through my elder hawaiian friend who just happens to shape and repair…

then the darkness came.

i began to blame the board for my lack of skill, or heart. 

First goon that saw the ad high tailed it to my place, and offered more than I asked.

now I am doomed to ride a pop out that could match a stand up paddle board for advantage due to size. 

I like to pretend I give away set waves to the crew on the inside.  I like to think I am the protector of the week, and run off wave hogs by frustrating them. I like to fantasize everyone watches ME and hoots and hollers when I catch a wave and burn another beginner at my home break.

i am all that is evil in surfing. 

i don’t even have the guts to move 3 miles down to another break to expand.

how do I light the candle of Aloha, how do begin respecting others in the water? How do I respect a master shaper, and hoard his board from the grubby hands that would take it? 


Too funny!

i too feel your pain.

… ambrose…

and we are but human,

flawed,in a world perfect in it’s

imperfection, three miles down the beach

is a lifetime away,start by making a board to surf

just 100 yards away,and in time you will be far 

down the beach and the angst will be just a rumor

you hear from friends.

pop out hell

aint funny.

…ambrose …


Time to shitcan the pop out.

Time to shitcan the easy streat break.

Time to slip into a handmade board.

Time to grow.


Time to live

Time to lie

Time to laugh

Time to die

Time to walk

Time to run

Time to aim your arrows At the sun


The Doors

Time to have fun?

You are on the fence and can go either way.you can stay where you are or get more agressive and catch some waves.  I’ve been there, it’s no fun to let others get the good waves.  Time to gain a little more confidence.