Hello- Sir I’ll give you my .02 on ‘expanding your awareness’ on surfing bigger waves.
I think it doesn’t even take a wave to teach you what you can or can’t do in any given situation. Let me give you an exp I had one morning while at work.one morning I had to do some work on top of a roof of a housei was working on. Anyhow, I’ve never really was one who liked working on roofs etc., and at one time I had a serious fear of heights. But I’ve taught myself by gradually scaling up to higher levels and have more or less rid myself of fear. But on one morning I just did not feel confident going up on that roof that day! I should have called my boss and told him I can’t do it right now, to go up without a spotter to hold the ladder…
But I we
nt up against my premonition of danger… So I get up there and I’m feeeling so so, but all of the sudden I started to slide and I sprawled like an octopus almost and it managed to steady me there for the moment… Then I tried to move, but my self-doubt sprung up and alll of the sudden I started to slide a bit again! I was losing it man! But I kept my little confiedence I had-when an “inner voice” came in. That voice told me, “Jim keep your composure or confidence or you’re f’d!” So I followed my intuitive message from my inner voice or guardian angel. I’ve heard we each are born with one btw… So on my second slide I told myself to not move again-until I was totally confident to move again.
So I waited about the time it took to regain my confidence-which seemed about 4-5 mins or so? But once I got my confidence I was able to act with more control. So I finally get up onto my knees-which where splayed out wide to keep my balance as it turned out the roof had been slightly damp and had moss growth-which made it slippery… So I decide to go back down before I fell to what would be a serious injury and possibly death as it was a 2 story house with a fence below…anyhow, I finally was able to act when I was ‘SURE OF MYSELF’ period.
That’s my msg to you. Do not surf or take any action on any endeavor if you DON’T FEEL SURE OF YOURSELF. That is my rule in life or surfing etc… If you don’t feel confident you shouldn’t be outhere. Also, if you’re not physically fit and up to the challenge, without proper knowledge it would be foolish to be outhere. Follow your gut feeling or intuition as it won’t lie. Above all only act when you’re SURE of yourself. Never try to imperess anyone by surfing big waves, as there are plenty of dead heroes…infact, I recently heard a show off was trying to impress a girl by racing his car through a neigborhood-only to collide into a wall and kill himself in front of the women…that said, I prefer fun size waves! And my biggest day so far has been about 8 foot and that was pressing it. I geuss we need to discover our realistic level. I never did care for big surf.