losing it

hey guys, these last two months… i dont know what’s going on. from november thru january i was on a mean streak, just getting better and better and better (at surfing of course). and naturally there would be a day or two where i would plateau, but then i kept progessing. but these last two months… i havent gotten any better, in fact i feel like i’m getting worse. and this contest i had today just really bummed me out about the whole thing. so, basically, i’m wondering if this has ever happened to any of you? if so, what did you do about it or how did you get around it? i just feel like i’m “losing it”, the stoke is fading and i dont know why… is this very common? is there anything i can do? thanks for listening to me whine like a little girl, but really, any ideas or stories would be appreciated. -steve

hey guys,>>> these last two months… i dont know what’s going on. from november thru > january i was on a mean streak, just getting better and better and better > (at surfing of course). and naturally there would be a day or two where i > would plateau, but then i kept progessing. but these last two months… i > havent gotten any better, in fact i feel like i’m getting worse. and this > contest i had today just really bummed me out about the whole thing. so, > basically, i’m wondering if this has ever happened to any of you? if so, > what did you do about it or how did you get around it? i just feel like > i’m “losing it”, the stoke is fading and i dont know why… > is this very common? is there anything i can do? thanks for listening to > me whine like a little girl, but really, any ideas or stories would be > appreciated. -steve Either you have reached perfection , or you might want to let go of the edge and enjoy your progression. It’s all relative. On second thought, after surfing with the crowd today, stop surfing and take up golf.

steve i spent almost 15 years of my life pretty much devoted to another lifestyle/sport (rockclimbing)which is so similiar to surfing in so many ways, but probably more heavily weighted by the performance aspect in that everything is numbers and training and so critically defined(one of the reasons i got burned out on it). one thing for sure is that peak performance is cyclical and without periods of plateau and even regression it is impossible to continue improving performance in the long run. another thing to consider is that with each step your surfing improves it’s gonna take an exponentially greater amount of work to make the next step. my advice is don’t get caught up that every day you surf you should improve. there’s some great books out on sports psychology that are great reads even for those who could care less about the idea of performance. don’t sweat it and let it happen. peace.

hey guys,>>> these last two months… i dont know what’s going on. from november thru > january i was on a mean streak, just getting better and better and better > (at surfing of course). and naturally there would be a day or two where i > would plateau, but then i kept progessing. but these last two months… i > havent gotten any better, in fact i feel like i’m getting worse. and this > contest i had today just really bummed me out about the whole thing. so, > basically, i’m wondering if this has ever happened to any of you? if so, > what did you do about it or how did you get around it? i just feel like > i’m “losing it”, the stoke is fading and i dont know why… > is this very common? is there anything i can do? thanks for listening to > me whine like a little girl, but really, any ideas or stories would be > appreciated. -steve Steve, Contests are not the place to be looking for a source of genuine, lasting satisfaction… perhaps you need to step back a little bit and think about what you expect to receive from competitive surfing. They only represent a day, a few hours, and some very subjective moments… and the next time, someone else may likely be the winner. At their best, contests are really fun and an indication of how you were doing at that particular point in time. But beyond that, theyre a worthless foundation on which to build ones self esteem. For many of us, meaningful, personal wave riding has nothing to do with pop surf culture or contests… theres more than enough awesome power, pure beauty and excitement in the real thing to embrace us as willing captives for a lifetime. As for your surfing, sometimes a change of scenery is helpful... and it definitely doesnt have to be an expensive, out of country experience, either, especially if the destination is spelled, “fresh, simple and uncrowded”. You can also just choose to confront your temporary drop in stoke and go find something else to do for a while, completely unrelated to surfing and surfboard building. Often thats the best solution. Life will always have its highs and lows... but after reading all your posts here in Swaylocks, Im certain youve been permanently infected with surf fever. So never worry, Steve, your heart is in the right place, and thats all that really matters in the long run. Dale

hey i know what you mean. i’m 30 (ancient) now. at 18/19 i pretty much hit my peak, which i felt at that time was pretty close to pro level. you can only progress so far. i rode longboards exclusively for 5 years due to the fact that i felt i couldn’t keep up shortboarding. now i surf for fun, about three times a week. i still want to dominate and be the best one out at a given break, but if i’m not i’m ok with that. sometimes it’s good to focus on something else, biking, snowboarding, whatever, where you are still learning. you will come back to surfing feeling very confident. just a thought. later.

Hi Steve, I’ve been coaching youth sports for for 18 years. So here are some thoughts you can wax up with or just treat like foam dust as you choose. Keep your humility it’s healthy. Remember to say two things after a contest. No Worries. I’m over it. No advice is better that what you give yourself: Read a good book. Surfing is not as much about accomplishment as it is about joy. If you feel like you’re in a rut get a stick that’s completely different than the one you’ve been riding and traverse some new horizons. Back off of getting better and help someone out who wants to learn. You can learn a hell of allot about youself by trying to teach someone else. We get more out of giving than any other way. Good Surfin’, Rich p.s. Damn, I wish I was young enough and hot enough to be in a contest.

thanks Dale, but regarding the contest issue, i’ve only been in 5 or 6 of them, and i only do them for fun, and if i win stuff, well thats just the icing on the cake. sure i love doing well, but i dont put any pressure on competing. i only brought up the contest thing because that was like the last straw. just wanted to clear that up… another thing, about the surf fever… oh yeah, im definitely infected, have been for years as im sure you and everyone else here has been. but it seems like its the surf fever that isnt as strong, just a plateau i guess. im not gonna worry about it… just back to having fun no matter what and not worrying about progress… thats what its all about anyway.>>> Steve,>>> Contests are not the place to be looking for a source of genuine, lasting > satisfaction… perhaps you need to step back a little bit and think about > what you expect to receive from competitive surfing. They only represent a > day, a few hours, and some very subjective moments… and the next time, > someone else may likely be the winner.>>> At their best, contests are really fun and an indication of how you were > doing at that particular point in time. But beyond that, theyre a > worthless foundation on which to build ones self esteem. For many of us, > meaningful, personal wave riding has nothing to do with pop surf culture > or contests… theres more than enough awesome power, pure beauty and > excitement in the real thing to embrace us as willing captives for a > lifetime.>>> As for your surfing, sometimes a change of scenery is helpful... and it > definitely doesnt have to be an expensive, out of country experience, > either, especially if the destination is spelled, “fresh, simple and > uncrowded”. You can also just choose to confront your temporary drop > in stoke and go find something else to do for a while, completely > unrelated to surfing and surfboard building. Often thats the best > solution.>>> Life will always have its highs and lows... but after reading all your > posts here in Swaylocks, Im certain youve been permanently infected with > surf fever. So never worry, Steve, your heart is in the right place, and > thats all that really matters in the long run.>>> Dale

hey guys,>>> these last two months… i dont know what’s going on. from november thru > january i was on a mean streak, just getting better and better and better > (at surfing of course). and naturally there would be a day or two where i > would plateau, but then i kept progessing. but these last two months… i > havent gotten any better, in fact i feel like i’m getting worse. and this > contest i had today just really bummed me out about the whole thing. so, > basically, i’m wondering if this has ever happened to any of you? if so, > what did you do about it or how did you get around it? i just feel like > i’m “losing it”, the stoke is fading and i dont know why… > is this very common? is there anything i can do? thanks for listening to > me whine like a little girl, but really, any ideas or stories would be > appreciated. -steve YEA YOU DO ANYTHING LONG ENOUGH AND YOU’LL HIT THE WALL AND TO RE-EMPHISE WHAT HAS ALREADY BEEN SAID CONTEST WON’T PULL YOU OUT OF THAT GLUM UNLESS ITS A TEAM DEAL AND ALL FOR FUN OR PERHAPS A FLASHBACK CONTEST BUT IT WAS ALSO SAID TRY TO TEACH SOMEONE ELSE —MAY I SUGGEST(HIGHLY RECOMMEND ) THIS -PERFERABLY A CHILD -YOU’LL GET THE PURE (THIS IS WHY I DO THIS) STOKE BACK IN NO TIME----I STARTED DOING SURF CAMPS THROUGH MY CHURCH A COUPLE YEARS AGO AND I’LL TELL YOU EVERY TIME A YOUNG CHILD STANDS UP FOR THE FIRST TIME ITS A TOTAL FLASHBACK FOR ME TO THE FIRST TIME AND I LEAVE THERE EVERY DAY TIRED BUT FIRED UP & JUST WANTING TO HAVE FUN REGUARDLESS OF THE CONDITIONS OR WHAT BOARD I HAVE -----ITS THE PURE STOKED THAT NABBED US ALL–TRY IT—P.S. YOUR TOO YOUNG TO BURN OUT!

hey guys,>>> these last two months… i dont know what’s going on. from november thru > january i was on a mean streak, just getting better and better and better > (at surfing of course). and naturally there would be a day or two where i > would plateau, but then i kept progessing. but these last two months… i > havent gotten any better, in fact i feel like i’m getting worse. and this > contest i had today just really bummed me out about the whole thing. so, > basically, i’m wondering if this has ever happened to any of you? if so, > what did you do about it or how did you get around it? i just feel like > i’m “losing it”, the stoke is fading and i dont know why… > is this very common? is there anything i can do? thanks for listening to > me whine like a little girl, but really, any ideas or stories would be > appreciated. -steve Surfing is about fleeting seconds. Hit a turn right, pull in for the view, a sunset by yourself… The stoke is in the moment. When you were a kid did you ever eat to much candy? Did your teeth hurt or was it your tummy? Balance and moderation are the key. Your not losing it, you’re suffering from guttony. Put it down for a while then come back and love it for what it is, the moment… My best memories are always of that aqua purple tinged warm evening when all was right and I was in the spot, but I had to be out of the water in the next five minutes… I was late for whatever

get a different board. and old one and surf it for a month. or get in a mat and surf it. just change for a while. you will see the difference.

hey guys,>>> these last two months… i dont know what’s going on. from november thru > january i was on a mean streak, just getting better and better and better > (at surfing of course). and naturally there would be a day or two where i > would plateau, but then i kept progessing. but these last two months… i > havent gotten any better, in fact i feel like i’m getting worse. and this > contest i had today just really bummed me out about the whole thing. so, > basically, i’m wondering if this has ever happened to any of you? if so, > what did you do about it or how did you get around it? i just feel like > i’m “losing it”, the stoke is fading and i dont know why… > is this very common? is there anything i can do? thanks for listening to > me whine like a little girl, but really, any ideas or stories would be > appreciated. -steve Steve, don’t let a contest situation bum you out. It was one of those things that made me finally give up on contests, usually poor conditions, knee high and 15 minutes to do you best, with the jitters. Concentrate on free surfing. satisfy yourself, we have had wave over the last 3 months, but it hasn’t been what would be called epic. RELAX.

Actually, your not losing it. Your just finding it. Keep up the hard work.

but it seems like its the surf fever > that isnt as strong, just a plateau i guess. im not gonna worry about > it… just back to having fun no matter what and not worrying about > progress… thats what its all about anyway. Well, if you’re in California you’re also coming off a few months of nice winter swells and offshore breezes. Day after day of blown out, unrideable spring slop will get you jonesing for waves in no time. You’ll want it so bad you’ll taste it. You’re right, don’t worry about it.

hey guys,>>> these last two months… i dont know what’s going on. from november thru > january i was on a mean streak, just getting better and better and better > (at surfing of course). and naturally there would be a day or two where i > would plateau, but then i kept progessing. but these last two months… i > havent gotten any better, in fact i feel like i’m getting worse. and this > contest i had today just really bummed me out about the whole thing. so, > basically, i’m wondering if this has ever happened to any of you? if so, > what did you do about it or how did you get around it? i just feel like > i’m “losing it”, the stoke is fading and i dont know why… > is this very common? is there anything i can do? thanks for listening to > me whine like a little girl, but really, any ideas or stories would be > appreciated. -steve The firts thing that comes to my mind is spoiled, to improve so much in such a short time you must have had fantastic surf and time to surf so much. Most guys would never have the chance to improve like this cause of the place they live and surf, work or have there family. Its much harder and it takes much longer to get any better, I even surf storm surf in winter over here just to stay in shape ( winters over here are very cold, snow and hail). I use every board, from 10.7 to 5.8 just to get the maximum of the moment and to try get better and more importand have fun. What I mean to say is that with one good day I’m just very stoked, stoked that I did al that hard work on those stormy days, cause now I’m surfing good waves and I’m in shape. Oh and sure a new stick would help, just like a new toy would with kids, but there might be a chance that youre going to get even more spoiled. Give it some thought, and keep surfing, you lucky bastard.

CDB, Clay, remember the Salty Dog contest at Spessard Holland Beach Park, onshore wind, slop conditions with a hint of size. 15 minutes of trying to put on the best show possible, only to have your fin jammed into the back of your thigh and have a foot of muscle ripped out like strands of noodles. Good days, bad days! Space sticks forever!

CDB, Clay, remember the Salty Dog contest at Spessard Holland Beach Park, > onshore wind, slop conditions with a hint of size. 15 minutes of trying to > put on the best show possible, only to have your fin jammed into the back > of your thigh and have a foot of muscle ripped out like strands of > noodles. Good days, bad days! Space sticks forever! yes the good old days of pro surfing in nothing burger condition : not one of my better days but its all but a faint memory now -the contest days are over (except for fun events-retro etc.) its all about fun and basic stoke and working just hard enough to feed all the kids—wonder why we ever subjected ourselves to that nonsense-it had nothing to do with anything