Losing Stoke.

One more example of the state of things, today.

Arrived at my local beach yesterday morning. Waves were quite small and there was no one out along the entire 1.5 mile visible stretch of beach. I decided to stroll down to a peak in the middle and get a few, anyway. Just before I paddle out,I look over my shoulder and here comes a 40-something guy with a rented board. I paddle out and once outside I turn around to see he’s sitting right in front of me,  about 15 yards inside. Sure enough, first wave I catch he decides to paddle for it. I yelled “hey” twice before he finally stopped. When I paddled back out he asks “Did I get in your way”. I said “What the fuck do YOU think?” He moved down the beach.

He was on a 9’ softie and wearing a leash. I expected him to do something dumb, and he did.

 

to stay stoked!!

Haha move to Australia and surf when it’s wet and cold…crowds diminish amazingly…thought it was the mid day sun for mad dogs and Englishmen but I’ve been blessed by the lack of crowds when it cools off here…funny thing is it still feels warm to me…cheers rich

Wow.  Really?  This thread makes me laugh.  All you spoiled surf snobs complaining about how things have changed.  Stop your whining and appreciate what you have in your backyard.  I grew up landlocked and only dreamed about living within driving distance to a beach break and I finally made it.  Stop pretending like you’re an emotional 13 year old girl experiencing her first period and take a look at the big picutre…you can make your own surfboards and outsurf 90% of the people in your line up.  Reality check.  Shut up and go reclaim your surf spot.  

listen to uncle george