A surfer goes to the Pasadena swap meet at the Rose Bowl, and comes across some boxes of old negatives (like 30 thousand old negatives !) - turns out to be archives from Surfing Mag from the 70’s and 80’s, black and white stuff, a real treasure trove of mostly unpublished photos from the era of transition in the surfing world.
Buys the three boxes full for $800. Makes copies of the pics. Gets in touch with the surfers and the photogs, sits down with them, shows them the pictures (which most of them never got copies of, and hadn’t seen in 30 years), and films their reactions and reminiscing. Classic slice of surf history (with a bit of “where are they now”), right from the horse’s mouth.
Jock Sutherland, Larry Bertelman, Buttons Kaluiokalani, Man Mountain Merkel, Aaron Chang, Rory Russel, Gerry Lopez, and many others.
That was my generation, these were my surfing heroes, found it so enlightening to see these guys today, and hear what they have to say about the life they lived back then, on the North Shore of Hawaii.
A good flick, for those of us who lived through that time period, and those interested in the history of modern surfing.