And walrus blubber to polish with
I do mine somewhere between 0 and 8,000,000,000 rpm’s.
But I think 0 is a little too slow.
Definatly know what you are talking about Mike. I Agree. Do the same myself.
good advice from mike… think about what your doing. if you want all that expensive compound to flick off onto the walls just up your speed. if you want the compound to stay on the pad to do some work slow it down and use some torque… i have taught a few of my staff how to polish. it takes a trainee about 3-4 boards to get to finish a longboard in 40-50 minutes. it definitly helps to see other industrys methods and adapt them to suit your tools and skills. the sandpaper technologys are mooving forward quickly and theres is some great materials out there that work great in a production situation. a good feel for whats going on like listening to the sounds the machine makes or the feedback feelings from the handle helps to really get pro… it takes time to get that tho. education vs intelligence…?
I suck too… but I pretty much do the same thing - Start off slow to move material, then speed it up at the end to take out most of the scratches, when the paper’s worn. I also tend to start out faster with higher grit paper. Same thing when I polish - start out slow to get the job done (and keep the polish on the board), then crank it up at the end.
I also use two different polishes, on two different pads - one for polishing compound and one for buffing. The reason for this is… I suck, and need all the help I can get. Good thing for me most of my boards are sanded finish.
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good advice from mike… think about what your doing. if you want all that expensive compound to flick off onto the walls just up your speed. if you want the compound to stay on the pad to do some work slow it down and use some torque… i have taught a few of my staff how to polish. it takes a trainee about 3-4 boards to get to finish a longboard in 40-50 minutes. it definitly helps to see other industrys methods and adapt them to suit your tools and skills. the sandpaper technologys are mooving forward quickly and theres is some great materials out there that work great in a production situation. a good feel for whats going on like listening to the sounds the machine makes or the feedback feelings from the handle helps to really get pro… it takes time to get that tho. education vs intelligence…?
spot on dave but i wonder how many listen? <a href="http://huie@compsand.com" class="bb-url"> <script type="text/javascript">eval(unescape('%64%6f%63%75%6d%65%6e%74%2e%77%72%69%74%65%28%27%3c%61%20%68%72%65%66%3d%22%6d%61%69%6c%74%6f%3a%68%75%69%65%40%63%6f%6d%70%73%61%6e%64%2e%63%6f%6d%22%3e%68%75%69%65%40%63%6f%6d%70%73%61%6e%64%2e%63%6f%6d%3c%2f%61%3e%27%29%3b'))</script></a>
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I bet resinhead uses seal skins
Actually its a seal skin / blubber backer, with a great white grit skin topper…works dam great, smooth finish, fast…almost like a 1,000,000 little teeth grinding away at my hotcoat. You really need to slow it down, if you go too fast the seal skin heats up and starts throwing chunks of blubber. Man, talk about pissing the wife off. You ever try to scrape seal blubber off the walls & ceiling?..And the smell if you don’t find every piece!
You can avoid that by completely wrapping the blubber with the seal skin.
That way, if you get the sander going to fast, it only ends up being like Jell-O in a Ziplock bag.
Rather than being like a fat girl in a thong.
You could also switch to sea lion blubber. It’s a bit more firm and doesn’t fly apart unless you get it REALLY hot.
Try polishing with otter pelts. Totaly gets rid of the shark skin swirls.
Always lookin out for ya…
I use very little sand paper to rubout.
Mostly use Flitz, a wet tumbler medium(in 3 grits) AND Scratch-X to finish it out.I use terrycloth bonnets for this part of the job.My rubout speeds are usually around 2000-3000rpms
To polish I use wool bonnets and toothpaste(Cleanlines trick) followed up w/ pure carnuba wax(auto detailer’s best).My speeds here are usually 6000rpms.
The last and final trick it to a burn down w/ lemon pledge using cheap,coarse, dry papertowels on a pad…at say 1000rpms. …The pledge trick was handed down to me By Jerry Mowe at Southshore in the 70s,and the papertowel trick was an ol jeweler’s trick handed down to me by diamond Jim in the 650 building in the jewelry district,LosAngeles,Ca.
It doesn’t get any brighter that that.
And ya,Kokua is right on with the towel trick…also works for overheating boxes and plugs too !
I can use 0 speed w/ my grinder ,positively…it’s in what you know… and can do with it.
Herb
Howzit Herb, Good idea about the tooth paste and no cavities on your boards.Aloha,Kokua
Dave ----I was thinking about what you said about listening to the machine. Hanging around the glass shop and listening to the sander or polisher in the next room is what made me think about it originally.
howdy Herb - I always start polishing slow to keep the splattering to a minimum, bump the speed up midrange most of the job, and finish it off fast to get that nice buffed out shine… more than one way to skin a cat (or a seal) I guess?
cheers for the tip kokua
With toothpaste and carnuba There’s very little spin-off.
The products are pastey dry by the time you put on the polisher.
High speeds will yield you a higher gloss,quickly.
But like surfdingy said,“NO SLEEPING AT THE LIGHTS” or you’ll boil down your board into a bubbling goo.
Herb